AboutRev. Dr. S.August Abbott Expertise Certified Avian Specialist; Pet Industry Joint Advisory Council member; Own animal rescue org; National Wildlife habitat #66378; bird care, nutrition & behavior consultant; International Assoc. of Animal Behavior Consultants Associate; National Wildlife Federation Leaders Club member; published bird care, info and behavior articles and guides.
Ongoing education in exotic bird behavior and nutrition
I can answer behavioral, nutritional, environmental, characteristic/personality questions as well as general health and health care.
No animal emergency can ever be addressed on the internet. We cannot see your animal, perform an examination, provide necessary care or medication.
Please value your companion for the priceless, living creature they are; not for what you might have paid for them.
Experience Certified Avian Specialist.
For more than 30 years I've worked with veterinarians, protective facilities, nature centers, preserves and on my own in providing care and education with regard to multiple animal species, including raptors (hawks, kestrals, owls, etc) and marsupials. In recent years I've focused on parrots, usually rescued from abusive or less than ideal situations and helping educate owners as to proper care. Expert in behavior studies and modification of problem behavior.
Organizations 4AnimalCare is the organization I run as an animal ministry; World Wildlife Association, Society for Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, National Wildlife Federation Leaders Club and more
Publications Bird Talk Magazine articles about rescued and problem macaws.
Education/Credentials Doctorate, Ordained Minister
Question ollie is a 2 year old sulphur cockatoo we had him for a few months then we had to leave the state and i left him with my son, when we left he seemed fairly tame and you could touch him due to circumstances i had to get licences it took awhile to bring him home and now that he is he seems so frightened of every thing and hisses it is not like he is the same bird, i know my sons dog attacked the cage (he tells me once but i think diffrently) i sit by his cage and talk to him softly he tried to attack me the other day a full on lunge, im just wondering if there is any thing i can do diffrently to try and calm him down and him not be so stressed (i also have a corella who talks none stop, and flies freely (when she hasnt been naughty and is having time out in her cage) he also tries to attack her) there diet consits of fresh greens every day bird seed, bird pellets, fresh fruit, and nuts (variety) they have plenty of chew toys is there any thing slse i can do or carry on as i am? any advice would be appreciated
thank you
R smith
Answer This very smart bird is confused and unsure about who to trust or what to believe in now. It would be a good idea to act like he's a brand new bird and start from scratch. Your sitting by the cage is a very good start. You have to be very patient and very careful. It's easy to let them get the upper hand and never come out of their cage (which is 'cage bound') or even end up with a problem biter and screamer if the right input isn't maintained.
Before beginning any of these steps though, wing trimming is absolutely, positively necessary. It shifts the balance of power. You don't want to make him flop to the floor if he tries to fly, but you don't want him having free flight for now either. There are pics of wing trim variations at the link below.
At first I’ll let them be in their cage for a day with a plain sheet or blanket (it’s important to not have any designs on it which might be frightening to them) draped over two sides and the top.
Every now and then approach the cage slowly and talk nicely – reassuring them and telling them how good they are. It’s the tone of your voice and the sound of your voice that is important and is being established at this early bonding time.
Once the bird has tried some of their food or taken a drink of water, they’re relaxing a bit. Offer them a treat from your fingers by holding it over the food bowl from outside the cage bars and if they’ll come over and take it, excellent! It may be an especially human oriented bird that you can start taking out and handling right now. Otherwise, don’t expect too much right now, you’ll probably have to drop the treat into the bowl.
You might also want to establish a separate nighttime cage. Bird mental health (and thus, overall health) relies strongly on regulated day and night hours.
When they’re in their nighttime cage, covered on all sides with just about ¼ of the front open so they can see out and feel secure, go up and start whispering. Nice, reassuring comments. When the bird stretches their wing, stretch your arm. Only a few minutes at a time and then backing away, letting them get a good night’s sleep in a darkened, quiet room makes a huge difference.
In the morning, at the same time every day (no matter what), slowly pull the cover away while talking nicely, in a soft voice and telling them what you’re going to do. Slowly opening the door and reaching in with a smooth motion, flat hand (or closed and tucked under fist) a firm “step up” instruction – no matter what, don’t hesitate or withdraw, take your companion out.
After feeding breakfast in the day cage (whole grain oatmeal with cut up fruits of the season) - a couple hours to enjoy their chewy toys and the view outside.
Come afternoon it’s time to come out and be with the human flock. With portable perches and spiral rope perches hung securely from the ceiling - these will be the bird’s goals, but they should interact with you first.
Most parrots will need no less than 2 hours out of cage every day; many will get an average of 4 hours and ours always get 7 hours.
Cooing, chortling, even a sort of purring noise can be expected when your bird is relaxed and next to you. Requesting head ‘scritches’ by lowering their head and enjoying gentle petting with a finger at the back of their head is a show of trust and further bonding.
When it comes to discipline for a bird, well, there’s no such thing. Beware of people who suggest hitting, swatting or yelling. These are extremely counterproductive - they only encourage aggressiveness and problem screaming behavior.
