AboutStephen Vantassel Expertise I was a professional animal damage controller. If you are having problems with squirrels, raccoons, beavers, moles, voles, etc. damaging your property, I can help give you information to resolve that damage. I was an assistant editor for Wildlife Control Technology magazine and have published numerous articles as well as two books in this field.
Experience Former assistant editor for Wildlife Control Technology; Master's degree in Hebrew Bible (yes I am licensed minister), Past New England Director for the National Wildlife Control Operator's Association. I have published two books, The Wildlife Removal Handbook (rev. ed) and the Wildlife Damage Inspection Handbook, and numerous articles. Perhaps a highlight was making the cover of Wildlife Control Technology. I have debated a noted animal rights activist in my own state of Massachusetts on radio and TV. http://icwdm.org
This question may not be in your area, but I hope you might have a suggestion. My aunt (who lives in the city) has a revulsion toward mice...she has difficulty even setting a mousetrap.
Is there any pest control available that you know of...something odoriferous that she can put inside and outside around her house that would repel mice? Or anything else that she can do that would keep her from having to deal with a dead mouse.
I would also ask you if there is something that she can put in her small backyard garden that would discourage the neighborhood cats from digging around in it and leaving their feces. Thank you for any suggestions.
Liese Zvonar
Answer The short answer to your first question is NO. There is nothing that will "repel" mice that I am aware of that has passed rigourous scientific real world testing. Lots of magic is sold out there but if it worked then my company would be out of business. I would suggest she contact a pest control company and have poison put out. They have ways to do it that will reduce risk to non-targets.
Here is some information on mouse control.
Poison Free Mouse Control: Trapping
Get snap back mouse traps. Don't use cheese. It isn't a good mouse bait. Second, wrap the snap trap trigger with a piece of nylon. Then put the peanut butter on the nylon. This way the mouse will have to tug and then fire the trigger. Otherwise they have been known to steal bait. Use traps with wide triggers like those listed on my web site. Set more traps. You should have at least a dozen if not more. Don't set them outside your house. If you need to trap outside your house, get tin cats. Remember be patient. Trapping is not instant coffee. If you are in an apartment building then you need to let the management company know as proper mouse control must be done a building by building basis. Forget a cat. They are not effective mouse controllers especially in buildings. http://www.wildlifedamagecontrol.com/solutions.htm scroll down to mouse musings for more info.
To prevent further mouse entry, you need to seal holes ¼ inch wide or larger. Obviously for old houses this is difficult, but securing even a few holes will help reduce mouse access. You can fill cracks with foam http://www.wildlifedamagecontrol.com/foamgun.htm or caulk. larger holes need to be filled with steel wool and foam or caulk. (just remember that foam is not UV stabilized, so as the sun hits it, the foam will decay. There is another product that is helpful for filling crevices, namely Copper stuff it. You can learn more about it at http://www.wildlifedamagecontrol.com/prevention/stufit.htm
Mice, like all, rodents can chew wires. While the risk is small it is a possibility. Obviously the longer they have been in your home the higher the risk. Make sure your battery operated smoke detectors work. So if there is a fire, you can get out.
Eliminating bird feeders and ground habitat is also very important. Finally, you need to keep trapping while you are securing the building. Mice need very little food and area to live. For some homes, mouse control is a perennial event. So never think the war is over. Next year can bring a whole new crop. Don't forget to be careful of diseases such as lyme disease etc. Learn more at http://www.wildlifedamagecontrol.com/animaldiseases.htm
For areas where there is heavy pressure from mice in the outdoors to enter your structures, use multiple catch traps to help reduce the population before they enter your home. http://www.wildlifedamagecontrol.com/mousecontrol.htm
Don't bother with repellents either olfactory or sonic. I have not seen any evidence that they work. Visit http://www.wildlifedamagecontrol.com/ultrasound.htm for information on the ultrasound.
As for cats,
Cats and dogs are tough. For dogs I would contact your local health department or animal control. Most areas have leash laws. For some reason the public doesn't believe in leash laws on cats and refuses to enforce the law on dogs. I would suggest a fence for your lawn/garden that is too high for them to jump. I would go up at least five feet. Make it wobbly so they won't want to climb it. You can also try a scare crow water sprinkler (see http://www.wildlifecontrolsupplies.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Produc...
It works by shooting out water when the motion detector is triggered. Since it is a stray, it may be used to water though. Also this technique won't work during the winter if your part of the country experiences freezing temperatures. http://www.wildlifedamagecontrol.com/housecats.htm
Otherwise, you will need to remove it or tie your own dog nearby. There is a new product called "Scat Mat". It shocks the animal that stands on the pad. Problem is that you would need a lot of pads.
Don't bother with plants that allegedly repel animals. There aren't any that would be fool proof because all a free roaming mammal has to do is walk past it up wind.. But if you insist on using some here are a few to try. (WARNING some of these repellents may be dangerous to the user and may require a pesticide permit to use) Repellents alleged to repel cats include allyl isothiocyanate (oil of mustard), amyl acetate, anethole, capsaicin, cinnemaldehyde, citral, citronella, citrus oil, eucalyptus oil, geranium oil, lavender oil, lemongrass oil, menthol, methyl nonyl ketone, methyl salicylate, naphthalene, nicotine, paradichlorobenzene and thymol. Oil of mustard, cinnemaldehyde and methyl nonyl ketone have worked in some instances according to what we have been told.
Don't bother with ultrasonic devices either. There is no evidence that I am aware of that they work. http://www.wildlifedamagecontrol.com/ultrasound.htm Also ultrasound is a weak frequency. It dissipates very quickly even if it was annoying to animals assuming they could hear it. I would NOT recommend poisons of any kind. The risks are just too great. I would visit http://www.suite101.com/welcome.cfm/living_wildlife
it has a link there on how to handle cats in gardens in a rather unique way. She makes part of the garden for them. It may be an option for you. Otherwise, unless you are willing to trap them and possibly suffer legal consequences, there isn't a lot you can do other than fortify your property. There is no magic in this business.
Of course, in the final analysis, trapping may be an option depending on the laws in your state.
Disclaimer: As with any activity, remember that animal damage control comes with its own risks and problems which can include but are not limited to legalities, health threats, and personal liabilities. Be sure to follow all state laws governing wildlife and make sure you have a thorough understanding on how to resolve the animal damage complaint. My advice is only as good as your understanding of me and my understanding of your situation. If you have any questions be sure to write back.
