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Photography/studio and lighting

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Question
I am just starting out and am trying to set up my own small studio.  My interest is primarily using simple black or white backgrounds, but I am not sure how to set up the lighting.  I would appreciate any suggestions on lighting equipment and setup.  My plan is to photograph mainly children and family portraits; possibly pets if the client wants that.

Answer
Suggestions for lighting just as they come to mind, not necessarily in order of importance :

* Try to avoid using built-in (on-camera) flash, as I find the light output from these too stark and unflattering, and largely contributes to the dreaded 'red-eye' problem.
* Consider investing in 2 photo-flood (aka 'tungsten' or 'incandescent') lamps & adjustable support stands. Not sure what prices are these days, and what makes/models would be available in your area.
* Use 1 of the lamps as the main, dominant light source, say about 6 - 12 feet from portrait subject(s), at an angle of about 30 to 45 degrees from camera-to-subject axis, and about 3 to 4 feet above subject's head.
Then position the other lamp to serve as 'fill' lamp about 10 - 15 feet from subject on opposite side of camera by about same angle, and at about same height as subject's head. Purpose of fill lamp is to reduce the intensity of shadow caused by main lamp.
* Feel free to experiment with distances and angles of lamps as different subjects may require slightly different treatment; different people have different shaped faces, and complexions, thus some may look better with lighting angles reduced / increased to soften / strengthen facial lines, and enhance / subdue complexions. But I emphasise: EXPERIMENT ! and adjust to taste.
* Traditionally, for children and women subjects, softer lighting is more flattering, whilst slightly stronger lighting with more distinct shadows is frequently more suitable for male adults.
* Don't position subjects right up against background, but rather about halfway between camera and background. Reason is to lessen chance of unsightly shadows appearing on background.
* Another way of adjusting the strength/softness of shadows and the lighting ratio (ratio of brightness of bright side to brightness of shadow side) is using crepe/drafting tissue paper placed in front of the lamps.
* As alternative to incandescent/tungsten photoflood lamps,  flash units are more efficient in terms of light output, but less predictable for determining lighting angles and ratios. With photofloods, you can see the effect of the lighting while composing and then adjust them prior to shooting, but with flash you can't tell where the shadows occur until after the shot is taken and viewed.
Downside of incandescent/tungsten floods is colour balance with colour film, where as colour balance of flash is definitely more suitable for most common colour films.
[p.s. you didn't say whether you shooting with film or digital camera].
With most reasonable digital cameras, you can set the camera's "White Balance" feature to pretty well match the colour output of any lights. However, with film you either have to buy colour film specifically matched to the lighting, or use a colour conversion/balance filter on the camera lens (an "80" series, i.e. "80A" or "80B") to correct for the difference.
By the way, not a good idea to mix photoflood and flash together, otherwise you'll have even more colour problems. Basically use ALL photoflood or ALL flash.
Of course, if you're only shooting black-and-white pics, then colour balance problems are not an issue.
* It would help me to know what lens(es) you have for / on your camera, because this can influence where you position camera. Usually, it's not flattering to photograph people with a wide angle (short focal length) lens as this can distort the person's features (fat people may look even fatter, people with large noses may look as if they have an even bigger nose).
Instead, better to position camera further back and use medium to slightly telephoto (longer focal length) lens.

Good luck with pets - they can be quite a handful when a stranger pokes a camera in their face, or even comes reasonably close. And some pets can be startled by flash.

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David Barry

Expertise

I have a lot of experience in most traditional forms of photography, so I`m quite knowledgeable about things like camera types and formats, techniques, exposure, film types, colour, filters, lighting, standard colour and black and white developing and printing. I do not make recommendations about brands or models, and I am not a camera technician so I may not be able to tell you what is wrong with your equipment if it`s not working . I also know a little about digital photography and imaging with scanners and digital cameras, so ask me and I will answer if I can.

Experience

Experience in the area I have been seriously involved in photography for over 25 years, including about 4 years as a professional, as well as 2 years providing administrative service to government photographers, requiring interpreting photographers' requirements and trade technicalities for those unfamiliar with such. I have successfully trained several beginners in photography, helping them to become competent in basic techniques. Organizations belong to: None at present, but have been in about 4 camera clubs, having won or had placings in 2 club competitions. Publications: A lot of my photos have been in educational / training manuals, books and some photography magazines, as well as 2-3 dozen images been on the Web so far. Education/Credentials: Completed 4-year diploma in professional photography technique at Sydney's Technical College Awards and Honors: 3 placings and / or merits in camera club competitions.

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