AboutSara Tro Expertise I am a professional custom picture framer and designer. I have experience in all areas of
picture framing, and own my own custom framing shop. I can answer questions relating
to the design of a piece, the preservation of the artwork, color theory, photograph
restoration, decor, art placement, room balancing and installation questions.
Experience I have owned my own retail custom frame shop for 5 years, and managed a high-end shop before that for 5.5 years. I worked for a professional restorer and archivist for 8 months prior to the management position. I am also a fine artist myself, with a BFA in Photography and Printmaking, and have been framing my own work for years and years.
Education/Credentials BFA Fine Arts, NYSCC at Alfred University, NY
Expert: Sara Tro Date: 1/15/2008 Subject: "Floating" art within the frame
Question I'd like to frame my large serigraph print (39 x 39") with frame space and so
the edges of the paper are revealed within the frame so that the paper
appears to float between the backing board and plexiglass. Can you tell me
how this is achieved with a large print? I've matted and framed my own
photos using archival materials (museum board, linen tape hinges, etc) so I
have some experience--but perhaps this is better left to the professionals(?).
Thanks,
Brady
Answer Hi Brady!
Thanks for the great question! Sounds like you have a great project to undertake..
Is the art a work you made, or did you purchase/aquire it from another artist? Just curious..
So, floating is a great look, and it sounds like you're looking to do wahts called a "pedestal float", which basically means the art is actually raised above the substrate/backing matt with a piece of acid free material (the "pedestal") cut smaller than the piece so as to hide the pedestal. What I would suggest, just because the piece is so large, is for you to take this to a local reputable framer. You certainly could do it yourself, and I dont doubt your framing skills, but I get nervous thinking about the size and the piece not being hinged correctly. Several things need to be taken into consideration when framing a piece this large.. the weight of the glass, the weight and quality of the paper, etc. If the paper has a coating on it, sometimes that can react with damp acid free tapes and cause a dimple on the face of the artwork.. it comes from the paper being wet, even slightly, in one spot and not the whole surface. It is very rare that this happens, but a professional framer might be able to tell if the paper has that fine art coating on it. If the art is a work of yours, then you know what kind of paper you used and can inquire at an art supply store to see if it has a coating.. (I think the coating is kaolin, or a type of porcelin powder coat..).
But, that said, if you do decide to do the framing yourself, here's what I would recommend..
You need to use a frame that is sturdy enough to hold the weight of the piece, several backing boards and the glass (uv grade plexi or uv glass). You also need a frame tall enough to pedestal float the piece as high as you'd like..
I would begin the fitting process by laying out a large piece of clean matt board on a surface. This will be your working surface, but will also help you flip the artwork over once you hinge it to the substrate. Build your frame, putty it, and lay it face down on a working surface, and lay in your sheet of glass. The frame should be sturdy, and have at least an inch of depth inside to house all that you need to build inside. If you want a gallery look, you may want to choose a slim (3/4"?), tall frame (1.5"?), and then build a strainer to go inside the back that will help make the frame strong enough to hold something that big.. Ok, so, you've figured out the frame, and it's laying face down with the glass inside. I would now hinge the piece to the backing substrate.. You can do a test with your hinging material on an edge of the piece, (somewhere that would be hidden if you had to overmat it because it buckled from dampness). Use acid free materials only, of course, and if you want to use a pressure sensitive, no wetness necessary (non-gummed),, hinging tape, use filmoplast p-90.. it's acid free adhesive, will be less reversable, but will hold without wetness needed. So, because of the size of the piece, you could do three hinges at the top if you want. Make three T hinges and attach them to the back of the artwork. Once they're in place, attach the t hinges to the backing/pedestal substrate (this will be your thick board, cut about 1/2" or more smaller than your art size. I usually cut it at a 45 degree angle, so it tapers back towards the backing board rom the art face, like a reverse pyramid). One very important aspect of the hinges is that there be a little room between where the hinge attaches to the art and where it attaches to the substrate. (Hard to explain, but necessary. It's basically to allow the art and paper to expand and contract without causeing wrippling or buckling from being attached to a board that doesn't expand the same way. So, there needs to be some wiggle room in the the hinges). So, Once the piece is mounted, flip it over and weight it with clean weights for awhile. I sometimes put small, non-weight bearing hinges at the bottom two corners. Some framers NEVER do this, some do it al the time. I sort of go by what I feel in the piece, how absorbaent the paper is, etc. Sometimes it's just necessary. Don't do it unless it is. Then fiure out where on your backing board the piece will reside, cut many slits into the backing board behind where the piece will go, thread gummed hinging tape through the slits so that the gum is facing foward, reinforce them on the back of the substrate with more tape over the part that goes through to the back (?), and then use a little ph neuratl glue to make several dots of reinforcement. Wet the hinges and place the art and it's pedestal over the backing, then weight the whole package again. Now, you need to make shadowbox walls, or use a plastic or wood spacer. SOme frame companies make wood stained spacers which match their mouldings, which look elegant. Shadow box walls look great too, and are easy to make. Just cut strips, the exact same width as each other, out of your backing board color (for a float I usually match the paper base color of the art, or go slightly greyer/darker). Atg or glue them together o make thick walls, (like 2-3 layers of 4 ply board is usually good). Place one wall against the top inside rail of the frame, edge to edge. then do the bottom, then the sides. You will wind up with four walls, cut precisely so that they line the interior of the frame and hold the glass in. CHeck to make sure the piece is permanently attached to the backing and substrate, then pplace it into the frame, resting on the walls (the backing should be strong, like another 8 ply board, so that it's not too flimsy and floppy. stand the frame up and then stand the piece up, blow some air into the frame and over the piece to remove dust, then lift the piece into place and let it fall forward into the frame.).. Place the pieceon it's face after you check ofr dust etc, and then seal it up. fit and wire and you're done!
whew..
big explaination for a small task, but i hope it helps.. and made sense!
ANy other questions about anything I mentioned please just write back. I'm assuming you have access to all of the products I mentioned etc, and if not, please also let me know that..
Best of luck to you on this one, if you decide to undertake it! I would probably say you should get it professionally done, just to save you the headache, but if you want to get the experience, it could be a good challenge. Make sure the art can handle the slight risk.. (no super valuable experiments!)
