AboutSara Tro Expertise I am a professional custom picture framer and designer. I have experience in all areas of
picture framing, and own my own custom framing shop. I can answer questions relating
to the design of a piece, the preservation of the artwork, color theory, photograph
restoration, decor, art placement, room balancing and installation questions.
Experience I have owned my own retail custom frame shop for 5 years, and managed a high-end shop before that for 5.5 years. I worked for a professional restorer and archivist for 8 months prior to the management position. I am also a fine artist myself, with a BFA in Photography and Printmaking, and have been framing my own work for years and years.
Education/Credentials BFA Fine Arts, NYSCC at Alfred University, NY
Expert: Sara Tro Date: 5/23/2008 Subject: etching framing
Question QUESTION: Hi, Sara,
It's your favorite questioner again!!! This time, it's about an etching. The paper of the etching is 12x9, and the image itself is about 3.5x5. Please click on the link to see the picture and its possible frame: http://www.judyrestore.com/frame/etching.gif. (I tried the link I provided for another expert under landscape design. It should be working the same way under Picture Framing). The 12x9 frame you see on the link is brown with subtle darker strips on it. I think that it looks quite good, yet i am wondering if it would look better with a mat and a 14x11 frame. I tried it on a 14x11 frame; it looked a little big to me. However, since I did not try it with a mat, I am not sure if it would still look too big with a mat. Also, I don't know how to cut the mat for this bottom weighted etching. If I were to cut a mat for it, do I follow the placement of the image to the paper, so the bottom part of the mat is bigger than the top? And what color of mat should I use? The paper of the etching is off white, and the image is brown. Thanks
ANSWER: Hi Judy!
Nice to hear from you again!
I checked out your etching in the photo you attached, and it's lovely :)
I think your idea of the dark wood frame will be very nice on this piece.
If it were mine, I would probably want to go with the larger frame, and I would float the piece on a matboard that was a few shades darker in tone than the paper color. So, basically, choose a subtle taupe or warm gray, but not too yellow/creamy color mat. The 11 x14 frame will give you 1" all around to expose the bottom board it floating on, and the matboard being darker will provide a nicer transition from the edge of the frame into the art, and it also makes the darker toned mat recede into the background more. So, if you have access to an accessory called a "spacer", (you can get them at any frame shop, or maybe even on line.. try this site.. http://www.frametek.com/HTML/FrameSpace/index.html), you would use the spacer to lift the glass off of the surface of your art.
Here's a step by step to do what's called a pedestal float, which elevates the art above the backing mat, adding a nice shadow and a separation between the backing mat and the art...
1. Choose your matboard and frame.
2. Cut mat to size of frame, 11 x 14 ?
3. flip art over onto it's face, now cut out a piece of matboard that is about 1/2"-3/4" smaller than the overall size of the art paper
4. Using archival tape, (Filmoplast P90, made by Taschen, is a decent one), make little "T-hinges" and attach the art to the smaller piece of matboard you cut. If you do not know how to make a t-hinge, look here about the middle of the page there is a decent diagram: http://www.diplomaframe.com/pages/440_tips_for_float_mounting_artwork.cfm
5. Now, make a few more hinges and apply them to the back of the smaller matboard mount, (this smaller piece of matboard will attach to the main 11 x 14 piece of mat that will be showing around your artwork, but will not be shown.. It's main purpose is to elevate the artwork off the main mat).
6. Attach the pedestal mat (smaller one, behind the art), to the main mat.
7. Then, cut your glass to size, clean it.
8. Lay your frame on it's belly.
9. Cut your spacers to fit your glass.. You'll need a wire snip or a good pair of scissors, Cut two pieces to 11" (or top length), then apply the spacers to the glass, then cut the two side lengths, which will be about 1/4" less than the total length.. measure with a ruler before cutting.
10. Now you have your glass with your spacers applied on all four sides. Lay your glass inside the frame, with the spacers facing up where the art will go.
11. Using some canned air, make sure there is no dust, and be sure to have cleaned the glass.
12. Lay the art in the frame.. the edges of the main matboard should be resting on the spacers.
13. Using framers points, etc., finish fitting the piece into the frame.
14. hang it up! :)
I hope this helps..
I think this method will look best with the piece, but because it already sort of has a mat, the float will look better than cutting an "over mat" or a mat with a window cut in it. An over mat would be easier, but the float looks better, in my opinion. You could also go for the no mat, no float, just getting the frame that fits the piece exactly, but that causes other issues, such as the spacers, (which you need), resting on the edges of the art, not a mat, and this can leave an impression on the art paper over time.
I hope this all makes sense..
Please feel free to write again anytime!
Best of luck,
Sara
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Sara,
I went to float mount tip on the web page you provided. I don't quite understand the construction of T-hinge yet. It says on the diagram "vertical hinge is going to be adhesive side down and burnished to the art work; whereas T top horizontal hinge will be adhesive side up to be be adhered to the mounting board." If vertical adhesive side down while horizontal adhesive side up, then there is no adhesive on their backs to make them attached to each other. Unless I put the horizontal strip adhesive side up first, and then put the vertical adhesive down down. However, it is not said there on the page. Otherwise, I need to use a double sided tape, yet it does not seem to be the point what the instructor means on the page, because both sides have the adhesives.
I am sorry that I did not get it, but would you please pin point the T-hinge again for me. I just need the part of constructing the T hinge itself. Thanks
Answer Hi again!
I know how hard the t hinge can be, both to follow and to explain, but it's a very valuable step to know, so I'll try to explain it as best I can..
Ok, so, a t-hinge should be used to mount most paper art to a backing substrate, whether the art is floating, or overmatted.
The basic t-hinge is created the following way..
-using an archival tape, (sticky or gummed on one side, paper on the other), tear off two pieces of tape, one slightly longer than the other.
-the longer piece will be the top of the "t"
-hold the two pieces of tape so that their sticky sides face each other.. So "sticky to sticky", so to speak.
-top piece will be horizontal and the bottom piece will be vertical, forming a t
-stick the bottom/shorter piece (centered) to the other/longer piece, but only over lap the top piece by about half of the width of the top piece.. So don't cover the top piece entirely with the bottom piece. You want some sticky area right above the bottom leg if the "t"..
-if you imagine that the artwork with actually HANG from the hinge, you'll realise that the top of the t needs to stick down to the backing board and the bottom if the t will stick to the artwork. Since the sticky sides face opposite directions you will see how that makes the hinge work.
I can draw you a picture, but where should I send it? I don't know how to attach images on the "all experts" site..
hopefully this helps clarify it a little.
If you want the drawing, let me know where to send it:)
talk soon
Sara
