AboutSara Tro Expertise I am a professional custom picture framer and designer. I have experience in all areas of
picture framing, and own my own custom framing shop. I can answer questions relating
to the design of a piece, the preservation of the artwork, color theory, photograph
restoration, decor, art placement, room balancing and installation questions.
Experience I have owned my own retail custom frame shop for 5 years, and managed a high-end shop before that for 5.5 years. I worked for a professional restorer and archivist for 8 months prior to the management position. I am also a fine artist myself, with a BFA in Photography and Printmaking, and have been framing my own work for years and years.
Education/Credentials BFA Fine Arts, NYSCC at Alfred University, NY
Expert: Sara Tro Date: 5/22/2008 Subject: etching framing
Question Hi, Sara,
It's your favorite questioner again!!! This time, it's about an etching. The paper of the etching is 12x9, and the image itself is about 3.5x5. Please click on the link to see the picture and its possible frame: http://www.judyrestore.com/frame/etching.gif. (I tried the link I provided for another expert under landscape design. It should be working the same way under Picture Framing). The 12x9 frame you see on the link is brown with subtle darker strips on it. I think that it looks quite good, yet i am wondering if it would look better with a mat and a 14x11 frame. I tried it on a 14x11 frame; it looked a little big to me. However, since I did not try it with a mat, I am not sure if it would still look too big with a mat. Also, I don't know how to cut the mat for this bottom weighted etching. If I were to cut a mat for it, do I follow the placement of the image to the paper, so the bottom part of the mat is bigger than the top? And what color of mat should I use? The paper of the etching is off white, and the image is brown. Thanks
Answer Hi Judy!
Nice to hear from you again!
I checked out your etching in the photo you attached, and it's lovely :)
I think your idea of the dark wood frame will be very nice on this piece.
If it were mine, I would probably want to go with the larger frame, and I would float the piece on a matboard that was a few shades darker in tone than the paper color. So, basically, choose a subtle taupe or warm gray, but not too yellow/creamy color mat. The 11 x14 frame will give you 1" all around to expose the bottom board it floating on, and the matboard being darker will provide a nicer transition from the edge of the frame into the art, and it also makes the darker toned mat recede into the background more. So, if you have access to an accessory called a "spacer", (you can get them at any frame shop, or maybe even on line.. try this site.. http://www.frametek.com/HTML/FrameSpace/index.html), you would use the spacer to lift the glass off of the surface of your art.
Here's a step by step to do what's called a pedestal float, which elevates the art above the backing mat, adding a nice shadow and a separation between the backing mat and the art...
1. Choose your matboard and frame.
2. Cut mat to size of frame, 11 x 14 ?
3. flip art over onto it's face, now cut out a piece of matboard that is about 1/2"-3/4" smaller than the overall size of the art paper
4. Using archival tape, (Filmoplast P90, made by Taschen, is a decent one), make little "T-hinges" and attach the art to the smaller piece of matboard you cut. If you do not know how to make a t-hinge, look here about the middle of the page there is a decent diagram: http://www.diplomaframe.com/pages/440_tips_for_float_mounting_artwork.cfm
5. Now, make a few more hinges and apply them to the back of the smaller matboard mount, (this smaller piece of matboard will attach to the main 11 x 14 piece of mat that will be showing around your artwork, but will not be shown.. It's main purpose is to elevate the artwork off the main mat).
6. Attach the pedestal mat (smaller one, behind the art), to the main mat.
7. Then, cut your glass to size, clean it.
8. Lay your frame on it's belly.
9. Cut your spacers to fit your glass.. You'll need a wire snip or a good pair of scissors, Cut two pieces to 11" (or top length), then apply the spacers to the glass, then cut the two side lengths, which will be about 1/4" less than the total length.. measure with a ruler before cutting.
10. Now you have your glass with your spacers applied on all four sides. Lay your glass inside the frame, with the spacers facing up where the art will go.
11. Using some canned air, make sure there is no dust, and be sure to have cleaned the glass.
12. Lay the art in the frame.. the edges of the main matboard should be resting on the spacers.
13. Using framers points, etc., finish fitting the piece into the frame.
14. hang it up! :)
I hope this helps..
I think this method will look best with the piece, but because it already sort of has a mat, the float will look better than cutting an "over mat" or a mat with a window cut in it. An over mat would be easier, but the float looks better, in my opinion. You could also go for the no mat, no float, just getting the frame that fits the piece exactly, but that causes other issues, such as the spacers, (which you need), resting on the edges of the art, not a mat, and this can leave an impression on the art paper over time.
I hope this all makes sense..
Please feel free to write again anytime!
Best of luck,
Sara
