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About Dr Stephen Vann
Expertise
Plant Diseases and Disorders of Lawn Grasses, Trees, Vegetables,and Ornamentals

Experience
Plant Diseases Identification and Management

Education/Credentials
B.S. Botany --- Miss. State Univ. M.S. Plant Pathology --- Miss. State Univ. Ph.D. Plant Pathology --- Texas A & M Univ.

 
   

You are here:  Experts > Home/Garden > Roses > Plant Diseases > junipers & boxwoods

Plant Diseases - junipers & boxwoods


Expert: Dr Stephen Vann - 10/31/2009

Question
QUESTION: I will try to explain as best as possible; firstly we recently moved into a new home that already was landscaped nicely.  Young boxwoods were placed in a hedge L-type design; starting closer to the house they are dark green and seem healthy-as the hedge moves away from the house the leaves are smaller and turning yellow? What could be causing this?  In the same planting bed there are also  8 small junipers--earlier this summer i noted one was turning brown- (now 4 of 8 are turning brown )originally  we had sprinklers timed to go on every day for 20 mins-(this area gets the hot afternoon sun) we turned off that area completely...which was before the other 4 even began to turn brown....could they be dying?  or too much water?  Mulch was put down in spring also.  I hope we don't lose all these plants.....please let me know what to do or look for- to be more specific?

Many thanks in advance

ANSWER: Eileen:
Junipers prefer well drained soils. Excessive soil moisture can lead to comlicated root problems. Yes, be careful on the water- better to hold on the water a bit.  Check the soil periodically to see if it is staying too wet.  You might want to consider having your soil tested.  Not sure where you are located, but consider contacting your local county Extension office about taking and having a soil sample tested for available nutrients. In many areas, this is a free service. You may also inquire at your local garden center or nursery about getting this done.  This will give you an idea if the boxwoods and junipers need any fertilizer.  Also, in the meantime, take a close look at those plants that look "puny". See if there is any physical damage to the main stem near the soil line. Just give them a once-over closely to look for any obvious abnormalities.

Regards
Steve

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thanks so much for your reply Steve, I'm located in Michigan- its fall here now and I would replace these bushes if I knew they were dead-another thing is I did put down several large fertilizer spikes by Jobes every so many feet around the different plantings in hopes that they were starved for some food (that was late august)--since this property had been vacant for 3 yrs before we came along. Meanwhile I hope I didn't inadvertently kill them....there's also a beautiful Lacey Japanese maple and couple spruce trees, a flowering pear tree- %26 some burning bushes which all look good - ....the little  Maple just dropped all its leaves this week- they were a bright deep red--so pretty-  I did just wrap some burlap around the lower 3/4 portion of it to protect from winter wind--is this a good idea?

Your help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks again

Eileen

Answer
Eileen:
I'd suggest not replacing the junipers until you can determine their health status- maybe next spring when you can tell better.  On the soil test topic, it is best to do the test first- so as to establish a baseline or a starting point. It may turn out that you may not need any fert. after all.  If you need help locating the Extension office in your county, I will be glad to check a map that I have here.  I will need your county name if you wish to tell me.I can look up the telephone # for you if you wish.

On the burlap issue. OK to put aroung base of plant. Not sure if it will help but shouldn't hurt.  You may take it off on those warmer days with lots of sun, then replace before temp drops down at night.



Steve

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