Plant Diseases/Cycad (revoluta)?
My cycad is pretty old. My Dad, who always called it a sago palm, died in 1979 and he'd had it for a few years before then, in a 6" pot. In 1980 or thereabouts, my husband discovered it outside in Southern California, bursting the pot. Owen (husband), like my Dad, has an interest in the unusual, so he brought it home to Sonoma County, CA, put it into a much bigger pot (5 gal. I think), and it has more or less thrived all these years. We have had little disagreements about how much sun it wants, I think it was happiest under the shelter of trees where it got sheltered light.the kind of sun Azaleas & the like want. It has periodically been in front of our house where it gets morning sun, but pretty hot in the summer. Anyway, it was recently moved from our north facing deck, back out front. My concern is that the fronds (about 8 of them & 2-3 ft long) are looking a little - not as green as they should be. -We gave it a drink yesterday & waiting to see how it does. The "pineapple" is a good size - maybe 4-6" across. it's trying to send up some new shoots from the center. In the past it has sent up new shoots (pups?) & Owen attempted to propogate same, w/little luck.
This is a really long inquiry. sorry. I need to know if we should feed same, and what.
Also, as to variety....... this is not the sago palm we all see in Home Depot & local nursery. It's "fronds are only 2-4" wide, and so stiff that if one gets too close, it tends to be vicious. We think it might be a Mexican variety. We cruised the internet a couple of years ago and found a likely prospect, but neglected to take notes, so my cycad is still a bit of a mystery. sorry to be so long-winded, but any help and advise u can give will be greatly appreciated. Fond regards,
This information should help for sure. Also I use a product called Atomic Grow, which is organic,
to make your plants healthy by raising the brix which is sugar. The healthier the plant no bugs. Check under the leaves to see if you see any if possible.
The sago palm (Cycas revoluta) is not a palm at all, but a cycad, a prehistoric class of plants. Sago palms produce a whorl of dark green, feather-like fronds on a single, hairy trunk. These slow-growing plants are easy to care for, making them a smart choice as a potted specimen in any zone. In U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8b through 11 potted sago palms can grow year-round outdoors on shaded decks, patios or porches.
Position the potted sago palm in an area that receives bright, indirect sunlight. Choose a room with constant daytime temperatures of 75 degrees Fahrenheit and nighttime temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Avoid placing the palm near fluctuating sources of heat or cold such as a heating or cooling vent. Keep the palm 5 to 8 feet away from hot, sunny windows. Place the palm away from high traffic areas to avoid constant contact with the leaves.
Rotate the palm one-quarter of a turn every one to two weeks during the summer, fall and winter months to promote uniform growth. Do not rotate the palms during the spring while new leaves are emerging, to allow the young foliage time to develop mature, straight stems.
Water the sago palm when the top 2 to 3 inches of potting soil is dry. Apply water directly to the pot using a watering can so as not to wet the sago palm's foliage. Fill the pot with water 1 to 2 times to moisten the soil. Allow excess water to drain away through the pot's bottom. Discard any standing water in the drainage plate below the pot. Never allow the soil to become soggy. Reduce supplemental watering in the winter months when growth slows, watering the sago palm only when its potting soil is completely dry.
Fertilize the sago palm once per month during the growing season, beginning in the spring when the palm begins to produce new growth. Apply an 18-6-18 nitrogen-phosphorous-potassium, water-soluble fertilizer at a rate of 1 teaspoon per gallon of water. Apply the liquid fertilizer when the palm is ready for watering.
Dust the leaves of the sago palm every four weeks using a cloth. Remove any dead or severely yellow leaves as soon as possible. Cut the leaf at its base, 1/4 inch away from the trunk, using a pair of pruning shears.