Plumbing in the Home/Pipe for outside faucet

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Question
Hi. Hopefully this question will be both easy to answer and detailed enough.  

I live in Missouri (cold winters). I want to replace one of my outside faucets. Due to the position of the house and landscaping, the faucet is about 7-8 feet off the ground (its supply pipe runs along the basement ceiling joists... or are those 1st floor joists? whatever).

What I want to do is end up with the faucet at a more useable height (say, 3 feet off the ground). To do that, I was wondering if I could run the supply pipe from the basement ceiling through the basement wall (through the existing hole, which is 7-8 feet off the ground), then down the outside of the wall (the wall is concrete) to the 3-foot level. To THAT, I am assuming I would need a different kind of pipe (not standard copper) for the outside portion. (Also I recognize this pipe would have to be clamped to the outside wall). Is that doable? I'd really rather not run the pipe down the INSIDE of the basement wall and punch another hole through to the outside, but if that's the only "right" way, then so be it.

Also of note: There is a shutoff valve already installed inside the basement, about 4-5 feet in from the wall, on that faucet's supply pipe. So I could use that to shut off water to the faucet in the winter and not risk freezing pipes (right?).

Thanks in advance!

Answer
Sure, it is all doable. If you want to use copper it is supposed to be Type "L" if it is exposed. Type "L" is a heavier wall thickness than Type "M" (commonly used inside residential plumbing walls "un-exposed") but some places have already used the heavier Type "L" required for commercial building and exposed locations in residential buildings. In your case if it is only the hose bibb being served there are much cheaper material that will be okay for a hose bibb line.
It seems strange that there is a shut-off valve serving only the outside hose-bibb. Perhaps that was the original intention (freeze protection). There are multiple ways to strap the pipe to the concrete. Check at your local hardware store as they will have everything you need.

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Cortez (cort) Cate

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PLEASE read this entire introduction. I have been doing this for a long time and I have come to the conclusion that if you are not willing to take the time to write a detailed question then don't expect a detailed solution! I am getting far to many questions that do not give enough detail to warrant a good solution. I realize it is a little difficult to formulate a good question but if you want a good answer you have to give me good details....read this entire introduction please....remember this website is world wide I have no clue where you live if you don't tell me.....to give more detail on the fixture you are having problems with...a one piece eljer 3.5 gallon flush will be totally different than a one-gallon flush toto.....details are important. I can answer most questions related to residential and commercial plumbing for many buildings. I have sufficient knowledge of the UPC and UMC. I will speculate for you if necessary. In those cases I will try to give you some guidance and you should use that to refine the question further and we, together, can seek the answer via a follow up. Plumbing codes and practices vary around the world--If you don't tell me where you live the answer I give may not fit your locality. I am giving my time to you as a way of fulfilling my perceived obligation to share. I am here to try to help you find a solution to your problem. REMEMBER, If you want a good answer you need to ask a detailed question and include where you live, type of pipes, type of building, water pressure if it is a water problem, type of heater, age of appliance & building all these and many more are variables that have an effect on various situations. Detailed information will help produce a better answer.

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Since 1972 a California licensed B-1 General Building Contractor, C-36 Plumbing and C-16 Fire Sprinkler Contractor; also installing and servicing Heating, Air Conditioning and Sheet Metal operating as C and C Building and Plumbing, California State License 279516. In 1995 I downsized the company to become semi-retired. Still I remain active in the construction industry. As head of a company I placed personnel and job safety as the number one objective followed closely by training and continuing education. Always seeking to stay informed of leading edge technology in the industry. Also I have spent several years as an Apprenticeship Instructor in the Pipe Trades Unions. Additionally I am a certified OSHA instructor.

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United Association of Plumbers and Steamfitters Instruction Training, Ann Arbor, MI Bakersfield College, Bakersfield CA Cal Poly San Luis Obispo, San Luis Obispo, CA Foothill College, Los Altos, CA California Licensed Contractor from 1971

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