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Plumbing in the Home/Jet pump cuts off after 30 seconds of pumping



I have a Wayne MODEL # SWS50 that cuts off after about 30 seconds of pumping.

This is my setup:
I have replaced a failing 1/2hp pump. All of the connections (suction, output, electrical 220V) are the same in all regards. I disconnected them from the old pump and transferred them to the new.

Precharged tank is currently at 25psi.

Successfully primed the pump.

Here is my issue:
The pump runs for approximately 30 seconds then shuts off even when a faucet and hose bib are open. After about 5-10 minutes, it will cycle on, run for 30 seconds then cycle off and repeats.

I have adjusted the pressure valve in various ways but no change in behavior.

Other notes:
The home circuit breakers do not trip.

The motor housing is warm to the touch after a cycle.

Gauge reads 0 at beginning of cycle, reaches maximum 20 psi then gradually returns to 0 by the 30-second cycle off point.

I do not hear any strange sounds (no gurgling, hissing, or spurts). At the beginning of the cycle on, water is delivered to the faucet, and as stated before gradually goes down to a trickle.

I opened the prime plug after a cycle and water is full to the top.

System has sediment filter with a new filter.

System has a water softener - I have tested the with the bypass on and off with the same result.

I also tested with the house valve off, i.e. supplying water only to the hose bibs.

Thank you,



Wayne is not the top of the line pump by a long shot and I'm surprised it is still running at all.  It sounds like the motor is wired for 115 volts and you said you have 230 volts.  Motors generally burn up after just a few seconds of getting 230 volts to a motor wired for 115 volts.  There should be a switch or a wiring diagram somewhere on the motor that shows how to wire the motor to the correct voltage.

This problem has nothing at all to do with the pumps ability to pump water, the filters or anything except an electrical problem.   Make sure you have the correct voltage from the breaker to match the motors setup.


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QUESTION: Ok. I will check that out and let you know. Can the opposite be true? The pump is factory set to 220V. I'm wondering now if the circuit is only 110V. I will test it with a multimeter, which I didn't have with me during my original troubleshooting session.

Thank you,


Generally when a motor is wired for 230 volts but only 115 volts is being applied, the motor will run smoothly until it starts doing some work.  Pumps work their hardest when moving lots of water, not building pressure like it would seem.  A pump at it's maximum pressure is doing no work.  So as the pump starts to catch a prime, it is starting to work.  The motor notices the draw of more amps and needs more voltage which it doesn't have.  So that slows the motor down which will make it go slow enough to re-energize the start winding.  This condition repeating itself will heat the motor rapidly and eventually trip the overload protector which takes several minutes to reset.

I think this is the exact condition you described, but until you can be sure with a volt meter, don't switch the motor because going the other way (putting 230 volts to a motor wired for 115 volts) can burn it up real fast.

Plumbing in the Home

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Bob Tabor


I am a Water Well Driller and Water Pump technician. I own a business in Riverview, Fl. We repair motors and pumps in shop and in the field. We repair and replace submersible and jet pumps, galvanized and bladder tanks, and their controls. Water filtration is another one of our specialties.


I started drilling and repairing wells and pumps with my dad in 1958 at the age of 13 years. I worked with him on weekends and in the summer when not in school. After graduating high school, I worked for my Dad until going into the Army in 1968. I spent three years in the Army then went back into the Well Drilling/Repair field.

Many Forums including my own.

High school and a few courses after getting out of the Army. They were offered on the GI Bill.

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