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Pontiac Repair/Fuel Injector



You've helped me in the past and your advice is always spot on and I can't thank you enough.

Need your help again, please.

I have a 2003 Chevy S10 Pickup 4.3L, has over 200k on it .
It set a P0200 and a P0303 codes.....I traced it to a bad #3 injector- plug, wire, cap and rotor all new, put a noid light on the harness and they all pulse .
So i bought an aftermarket single injector, Autozone.
Took it apart but i discovered that the plastic retainer on the end of the injector ,the little retaining clips break so it wont relock into the manifold.
I know i have to remove all of the injectors just to access the bottom of the meter to replace the one.

I broke just #1 cylinder retainer and stopped before i broke any more.
Am i correct in the fact that the injectors just pull out with a little muscle and that they break?
any tricks to get the rest out without breaking ?
I cant afford another $500. for 5 for injectors and i know a junk yard part would break just the same.
I called Chevy and they said they can order retainers for them $28.00 a piece but they had no picture of them so they couldn't tell me if that's what i needed.

The injectors i have are the newer style, not the poppet style.

What do i do?



being that this is 12 years old and X amount of miles all those heat cycles have take a toll on the plastic on those injectors. there is no easy way to get them out just be gentile and usually pressing down on the hose to press the injector hown into the intake more before squeezing the tab "helps" but they uaually break off. I personally am not away of a retainer kit for these they may be able to get a seal kit for them but ones the plastic tabs break off they need replacing. I usually recommend only Original equipment for any fuel system parts but being that they are so expensive I'd look at any kind of cheaper after market alternative. I just looked has them for as little as 42.00 for a (reman) Yuck but it's cheaper then $100.00

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: That's the problem, it doesn't have the tabs to squeeze like the poppet style.
It has 3 small tabs that are recessed in the hole that lock it in.....I don't see anyway to get to them to release them.

So I guess its just muscle em out ,right? If they break, i have to replace them.

Here is a link to a picture of what i have ....
Hover over image to see the little tabs on the plastic piece

Thank you again


ANSWER: My bad I missed that part of you message/question The seal pit your referring to may be all you need but it's been so long since I have had one of these apart I's rarely that I see ANYTHIN that is out of warranty any more. which means anything more then 4 years old I don't work on. you may want to try some carb cleraner and spray around where it goes into the intake it may act as a lubricant and also break up the sludge that is hold it in.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------


Todd, I was able to replace the #1 and #3 cylinder Injectors only..
I was able to take the meter out of the bracket and tilt it enough to get the injectors out without having to remove them all.
I had one of those retainers stay in the manifold and had a heck of a time getting it out but i did......

NOW...on to my new problem...

Replaced the injectors, put it all back together and it cranks but wont start
I have spark, fuel pressure, injector pulse....Everything is plugged in, wires are not crossed.....
What the hell could i possibly have done ?

Sometimes its just keeps cranking, other times it cranks good and then locks for a second like how it would if wires were crossed...but it doesnt do that all the time....
I'm stumped......I dont want to take it all back apart if i dont have to...
Any ideas what i couldve messed up?  
I dont think its the injectors....i made sure that #1 and #3 were in the correct spot in the meter but it would be hard to mess that up since 3 & 5 are right next to each other and 1 is way up front

Help man!

Joe D

take the spark plugs out and clean them off. they are either flooded our fouled out maybe a brand new set of plugs in they have been in there for a while. do you have spark at the plug s or just at the coil? take a look inside the cap and make sure it's not wet/damp if so the spark is can cross fire and act like the timing is off.  

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Todd Puccio


General auto repair,electrical issues,driveability issues,anti-lock brakes,SIR systems,HVAC,engine performance,Gm specific. I have worked at my current dealership since the 1990 model year anything much older than that I have limited exposure to. I do not have very much transmission experience so those question you may want to ask of another expert. When you send me a question let me know the exact make/model/engine and year for the car or suv you have it makes it easier to answer the questions that way. If your happy with the answer I gave you please feel free to Donate. This is a free service to you and I am not compensated at all by this web site. I have 22 years of experience to share with you and my knowledge wasn't free to me. I had to pay for my education.


Experience in the area: I have been a technician in GM dealerships for over 22 years and I am a ASE master technician. I work at a Buick and GMC truck store Previously I worked at a Pontiac GMC store for 18 years. I Served a a lead technician when dealership was on a team system. I just recently moved to a Buick,Hummer,Saab Store when my franchise was purchased by this dealership. Organizations: ASE master technician


Education/Credentials:High school diploma,2 year vocational school degree 2 year college degree. Associates degree in applied sciences (auto technology)Awards and Honors: GMC master technician

Awards and Honors
Master GMC truck technician Master ASE technician in 9 categories

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