Question The car usually starts right up, but some days i crank an crank an it won't start. It seems to be electrical related. When i let the car sit with the key turned to run i hear a click sound come from the passenger side dash, then i crank the car an it starts right up an keeps starting all day. But when car sits for a day or so it won't start right up, i have to wait for up to five minutes with key in run position. I know it's not fuel pump or fuel regulator cause i replace those, an pull the line off regulator when car won't start to see if gas is flowing, an it's always flowing thru regulator. I also shoot carb cleaner in the intake when it won't start and it always runs a little bit. So i know it's not spark related problem. ((Is there something that could be shutting the injectors down or could computer be going bad?)) I am baffled, i been trying to fix this problem for months now. The car has always started on first try before, even in the coldest days of winter.
Answer Hey Pete:
well sounds like you kind of covered your bases. BUT you need to go further. just because you replaced parts doesn't mean they are "good" parts. does this have a new fuel filter to go with the pump? you need to actually check the fuel pressure with a gauge. that engine needs around 40PSi of pressure to start and run well. as for spark you need to get a spark tester it looks like a spark plug with a clamp on the side of it unplug a plug wire and attach the tester to the wire and then attach the clamp to something metal on the engine it needs to have spark on all 3 coils you just need to check 1 wire on each coil not both. Unless you find one that doesn't have spark then check the other wire but plug the one you had of first back onto the coil . lastly is injectors you can check them with a "computer safe test light they will be labeld high impedance test light or you can always get a noid light that will attach to the injector harness you have on that engine it's biasically a LED test light that plugs into the harness crank the car and you should see it blinking relatively bright on a cold start. a few other things to check on this thin is the battery cables and ground wires. that engine has a big bunch of ground wires on the bracket under the ignition module and alo ther are a few on the engine to transmission attachment bolts. give the wires a tug if you have a bad one they will break off if they are tight take them off and clean the ends off. aalso do the same thing with the ground wire from the engine to battery and the battery to the body ground. you will find something in the places I mentioned. find out what your missing and go from there it's better then just guessing as to what the issue could be. good luck :-)
General auto repair,electrical issues,driveability issues,anti-lock brakes,SIR systems,HVAC,engine performance,Gm specific. I have worked at my current dealership since the 1990 model year anything much older than that I have limited exposure to. I do not have very much transmission experience so those question you may want to ask of another expert. When you send me a question let me know the exact make/model/engine and year for the car or suv you have it makes it easier to answer the questions that way.
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Experience in the area: I have been a technician in GM dealerships for over 22 years and I am a ASE master technician. I work at a Buick and GMC truck store Previously I worked at a Pontiac GMC store for 18 years. I Served a a lead technician when dealership was on a team system.
I just recently moved to a Buick,Hummer,Saab Store when my franchise was purchased by this dealership.
Organizations: ASE master technician
Education/Credentials Education/Credentials:High school diploma,2 year vocational school degree
2 year college degree. Associates degree in applied sciences (auto technology)Awards and Honors: GMC master technician
Awards and Honors Master GMC truck technician
Master ASE technician in 9 categories