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About Bill Newsted
Expertise
I can answer questions related to shot-making, aiming, position play, strategies, practice, mental preparation and the psychology of the game. Also, rules as they vary from venue to venue and how to become a winning player. I have experience recovering and maintaining tables and will also answer questions related to cues and billiard equipment. However, I prefer not to make brand recommendations.

Experience
I have played for forty years in every state in the US (except Alaska).My experience is largely in pool rooms but I have also played extensively on bar tables and in league organizations. I have directed numerous tournaments up to the professional level and have played several world champion players. I am a former Billiard Congress of America instructor.

Organizations
APA BCA

Education/Credentials
B.S. in Visual Communication M.A. in Education: Career and Technology Education

You are here: Experts > Recreation/Outdoors > Billiards > Pool/Billiards > Unusual Cushion Profile

Pool/Billiards - Unusual Cushion Profile

Expert: Bill Newsted - 11/2/2009

Question
QUESTION: I have recently obtained a 7 foot Frederick-Willys model 6847 pool table. I am going to replace the hardened cushions and damaged cloth myself. The profile of the cushions is nothing like any of the ones I can find anywhere.

The rubber has a 3/4" wide base, is 5/8" from base to nose, and the top of the rubber is 90 degrees to the base. The wood surface of the rail that the rubber attaches to is also 90 degrees relative to the table top.

I have been told by a repair parts dealer that this profile is no longer available. Would you be able to point me in the right direction to obtain this discontinued profile?

It was recommended by the parts dealer that I cut the sub-rail perpendicular to the table bed to expose a vertical surface of 1-1/4" so I can attach the U56 profile rubber. While this would work, it only leaves a narrow 3/8" strip of wood behind.

I found another rubber profile, U23, that requires a smaller gluing area (1-3/32") but the sub-rail needs to be cut at an angle. I am comfortable with this as I a moderately skilled woodworker, and this would leave more sub-rail behind for support. The problem is I can't find out what the angle is, relative to the table top, that I need to cut to accommodate this profile. Can you help me with this detail?

Thanks for reading this long winded explanation!
Alan

ANSWER: Hi Alan,

Hard to say what you'll have to end up doing on this one. I think the original cushion may have been what we called "Rex Rubber". I haven't seen it for years and don't know of a source. But you could get lucky if you search long enough. If you're comfortable with the U23 alternative I suggest starting with and angle about 30-31 degrees and cutting a couple of test blocks. You want to use whatever angle ends up placing the point of the cushion 1 7/16 inch above the bed of the table, that's job one. Work with scrap wood until you find the best angle.

After that you need to make sure you don't compromise the geometry of the table - needs to be exactly twice as long as it is wide. 38 inches by 76 inches is the standard size for a 7 foot table's playing area (where a ball could roll). But some are actually 39 inches by 78 inches. So you need to find a combination of cushion profile and angle of cut that comes as close as possible to meeting those objectives.

Let me know if I can help any more.

Best,

Bill

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Hi Bill,

Thanks for the help. I have a follow-up question for you.

At this point I am still removing the GAZILLION staples from the sub rails and stripping the felt and rubber from them. I have come across one of them that the rubber has turned to a sticky putty like substance. After carefully ripping most of the deteriorated rubber off of the sub rails there is quite a bit of the sticky goo left behind. Can you suggest a solvent or something to use that will dissolve or loosen the stuff so it will come off without leaving residue? I am using the brute force method to remove the rubber. Is there a better way?

Thanks again,

Alan

Answer
Of course without knowing what glue was used, let alone what causes it to remain gooey, it's hard to be specific about what will remove it. I usually start with the least toxic alternative possible. I start with mineral spirits. If that doesn't do it, move on to denatured alcohol, keytone, naptha and finally, lacquer thinner. If you're working in a well ventilated area (really well ventilated) and don't have a whole shelf of solvents you might just start with lacquer thinner. But that stuff is nasty toxic and can make you sick in an enclosed area. Remove as much old glue as you can without solvents.

Good luck,

Bill

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