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About Ti Phillips
Expertise
Will answer any questions on hand building, wheel, glaze, firing. Speciality questions to include those in glaze calculation and development, firing techniques.

Experience
Experience includes 30 years in pottery design and education. Have taught online and studio classes worldwide for the last 20 years. Own a pottery retreat specializing in firing techniques. Have 12 years solid experience in glaze calculation and formulation as well as problem solving in glaze chemistry. I am the first potter in the United States to have developed a complete package of pottery equipment blueprints for a studio. The blueprints include wheels, kilns, studio furniture, wedgeboards, raku kilns, slab rollers, ball mills and studio tools.

Organizations
Alliance of Pottery Artists Worldwide Association

Education/Credentials
University of Sciences and Art's of Oklahoma, studied under Professor Jaymes Dudding.

Awards and Honors
Potter of the year with APAWA, various awards for showmanship and design.

Past/Present Clients
Available upon request.

You are here: Experts > Arts/Humanities > Visual Arts > Pottery > Centering Clay Process

Pottery - Centering Clay Process

Expert: Ti Phillips - 11/3/2009

Question
Another question occured to me as I was "surfing" the answers here. Is there a trick to centering large amounts of clay? I have really small hands and have real trouble centering more than a few pounds of clay at once. It seems if I can't keep my hands joined I just can't get rid of the last of the wobble. For now I just center 3-4 lbs and then add another ball ontop and center that. I have gotten up to about 8 lbs this way but after that I just can't seem to make the top (the added ball) and bottom (already centered) come together without introducing the dreaded wobble back in.
My technique is to "lock" my left arm into my body and use the right to manipulate the lump until it is in the center. I'd like the opportunity to try some large things but I am plain worn out with trying to center big hunks of clay.

Answer
Dear Terri,

    Thank you for your recent question. There is really no "trick" to centering clay. Centering comes from practice and finding the position for your hand that is the most benefit to the clay. Remember that when centering, you are not only manipulating the clay into a specific position, but becoming one with the clay during the process.

    I teach classes online that describe many methods to centering clay. You stated that you lock your left arm into your body, and manipulate the clay with your right. In this position, your left arm, which in this case, is loosing the force you are trying to achieve, because the wheel is turning outward.

    To begin centering, place your right elbow on your thigh with your right hand resting along the wall of the clay ball. The heal of your hand will be gently pushing counter-clock-wise as the wheel spins. Your left hand is placed on the top of the ball, with your thumbs locked. The right hand thumb is on top of the left hand thumb.

    The palm of the left hand rests on the top of the clay mound and the fingers are resting over the right hand.

    The position of your hands should be about 4 oclock. Start the wheel on the maximum speed, generously wet the clay and place your hand in the position above. To begin, your right hand will press into the clay wall. This should be a force that allows the wall to begin moving inward. The right hand will only act as a guide to keep balance.

    As the clay wall begins to move inward, draw your right hand up the wall of the clay slightly. This should position the clay body on the wheel, draw out some of the lumps in the wall to make it smooth and prepare the clay for the next positioning of your hands.

    Move your hands to the 1 oclock position with the palm of your left hand resting on the top of the clay and the fingers folding down the side of the clay. Take your right hand and position it over the fingers of your left hand.

    To begin the centering process, start the wheel on high, wet the clay generously, position your hands as described above and press inward with your fingers. The clay will begin to draw upward. Allow your hand to move upward, keeping pressure on the side of the clay with your fingers. As the clay moves up, press back down with the palm of your hand, while releasing pressure on the sides of the clay. Do this several times to cone the clay. This pulls out any lumps in the middle of the clay.

    To finish centering and actually get the clay balanced, place your hands at the 1 oclock position with your right hand resting on the wall of the clay and your left palm on the top. Place your left hand fingers over your right hand at about the knuckles. Start the wheel on high, wet the clay generously, position your hands and place pressure on both your hand equally.

    Make sure you keep your clay moist during this process. When you remove your hands from the clay to reposition or moisten the clay, release your hand slowly so you do not knock the clay off center.

    I teach my students to close their eyes on the finishing step and feel the clay. They will know when it is centered as the clay will no longer have a drag against their hands. This happens in a split second and therefore, the hands must be released from pressure as soon as the center is felt. Start with a cantaloupe size ball of clay, wedged completely and pounded into a nice ball.

    I hope this helps you. If you have further questions, please feel free to contact me again.

Sincerely,
Ti Phillips
Earth Stoke 'N Fire Pottery Studio and Artist Retreat
www.earthstokenfire.com

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