AboutConnie Hester Expertise Quilting and applique expert.Can advise on the following topics:quilting, art quilts, quilt design and construction, machine and hand quilting, paper foundation piecing, machine piecing, hand piecing, raw edge applique, turned-edge applique and fiber art.
Experience Winning awards in international fiber and art competitions since 1983; http://www.conniehester.com/
BS,MS
See my work and books at http://www.conniehester.com/
Question I have a Consew 206RB used for upholstry that I no longer use, instead of selling my machine I would like to use it for machine quilting. I have done a trial run on a small quilt but I found my bottom layer was puckering, and I gave up. I can't find my manual for the machine, any suggestions on how to help. I would really like to get into machine quilting on a regular basis. Thanks
Answer I am not familiar with the sewing machine you have, and you haven't mentioned exactly how you have set it up for machine quilting, but some of the variables to consider when machine quilting:
1.) If you are using invisible thread (.004mm size) in the bobbin, perhaps the automatic bobbin winder is stretching the thread as it winds onto the bobbin - a common problem. To correct this problem, hand-wind the bobbin.
2.) If using invivible thread in the bobbin, fill the bobbin about 1/4-full of regular thread first, then hand-wind with the invisible thread. Often a machine will have to pull harder (thus, stretching the thread in the process) on the last quarter of the bobbin's thread. As the bobbin thread is stretched, it leaves the bottom fabric puckered.
3.) Despite the advice in many machine quilting articles, one should NOT run the machine at top speed when machine quilting. A rhythm needs to be struck between the speed of the machine and the feed of the fabric under the needle, keeping the layers smooth as they move under the needle. Running at top speed prevents maintaining consistent-sized
stitches and it produces bunched-up stitches on top of each other, which not only look unsightly but can cut through the fabric or cause other degradation to the fabric. I move at a speed which allows me to see exactly where the needle will fall with each stitch.
4.) Use a bandsaw and metal nail file (to smooth the cuts) to cut out the front of your darning foot, if you are free-motion quilting, so you can see exactly where the needle will fall. I have cut out about 1/4"-3/8" on the front of the small plastic circle on my darning foot. The plastic is not adequate for seeing where the stitches will fall.
5.) Adjust the tension screw on the bobbin case 45-degrees at a time to the left. Make notes with each 45-degree adjustment so you will know what you have done. Buy a second bobbin case because constant adjustments to the screw will result in a stripped hole. Keep one bobbin case for regular sewing and one for machine quilting with invisible thread.
6.) Use heavier thread in the bobbin. Perhaps your machine cannot handle the fine invisible thread at all, and you don't want to use heavier than .004mm.
7.) Adjust tension according to which stitches look too tight/loose on your sample (top or bottom).
8.) You need to use rather thin batting. Fat batts are not appropriate for free-motion quilting.
9.) Use a walking foot for straight-line quilting so that the bottom fabric will feed under the needle at the same rate as the top fabric.
10.) Quilt from the center of the quilt outwards in all directions so that the bottom fabric is smoothed outwards as you work outwards from the center.
11.) Baste the layers together well before quilting. I baste within 1 1/2"-2" apart all over the surface of the quilt in order to hold the layers together smoothly. By using needle and thread rather than safety pins, I don't have to dodge pins and work smoothly.
