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About Ken Myers
Expertise
I can answer beginning, advanced and expert questions about electrically powered R/C model aircraft, and many questions about R/C model aircraft of all types, except helicopters. I`ve been building, flying and designing R/C model aircraft for 40 years.

Experience
I have been building and flying radio controlled model aircraft since 1960. I'm the president of the Electric Flyers Only, Inc., located in southeasten Michigan. I'm a past president of the National Electric Aircraft Council. I'm vice-president of the Midwest R/C Society. I was president and main founder of the UFO (Union Lake Flying Organization). I've built and flown most types of model aircraft except helicopters.
 
   

You are here:  Experts > Hobbies > Radio Controlled Vehicles > RC Model Airplanes/Cars/Boats > assembly problem

Topic: RC Model Airplanes/Cars/Boats



Expert: Ken Myers
Date: 5/20/2008
Subject: assembly problem

Question
QUESTION: My question is so basic it's been hard to find advice for  my difficulty; I hope you can help. I'm new (obviously) at this, so here goes. I'm trying to assemble a basic balsa model, and the paper skin on the wings is killing me. How can I get the paper on the wing tops to smooth out? The arc of the wing formers makes it difficult to cover the wings without wrinkles. Using sprayed water has been less effective than I've been told. I hope you can help. Thanks.

ANSWER: Hi Tom,

Doing a tissue covered model is extremely difficult.
The tissue should be applied using dope, which is a type of aircraft paint used on models.  The tissue is NOT attached with glue, but unthinned dope.  The tissue must be applied as smoothly as possible.  I have wet the tissue and then doped it to the airframe (or also used a product called Silkspan or even silk).  Once the tissue is in place and taught, clear dope is thinned 50% with its thinner and one coat applied to the airframe.  Another batch is mixed up with 75% dope and 25% thinner and brushed over the whole airframe.  Finally a third coat is used full strength.  Once the pores of the tissue are filled, one coat of colored dope can be applied for the color.
This is an extremely difficult skill to acquire and takes years of patience and practice to get a decent looking finish using silk/silkspan/Japanese tissue and dope.

Sincerely,
Ken

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: T3lqt4hanks, Ken. Are you saying that it's easier to form the wing covering if the tissue is wet? And that the dope will adhere? I'd like to use the tissue in the kit. Thanks.

Tom

Answer
Hi Tom,

Tissue is applied in sections.  If the wing is fairly straight, it can be done with four pieces. One piece goes on the bottom right panel, one on the bottom left panel, one of the top right panel and one on the top left panel.  Full strength dope is applied to the balsa framework. One of the bottom tissue panels, which has been moistened, is laid on the framework and then the dope worked through the wetted tissue with the brush to adhere the tissue to the framework.  The other bottom tissue panel is done the same way, and then the top tissue panels.  After the structure has dried, trim away any excess tissue with a single edge razor blade.  Apply dope, in a mixture thinned 50/50 with thinner, to the top and and bottom of the wing now covered with tissue.  Hold the wing over your head while doping and dope the surface you are looking at.  This is so that any excess dope going through the pores in the tissue runs back to the surface and can be brushed out while it is still wet. After 36 hours (That's how long it takes dope to cure, but it will be "dry" to the touch sooner.) redope using a mixture of 75% dope and 25% thinner, following the same method.  Allow to dry.  Dope the whole structure with 100% dope, and finally with a coat of colored dope of your choice.
It takes quite a while to "do it right" but you'll be rewarded with a great looking finish.

Have fun,
Ken

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