AboutMorgan M. Audetat Expertise Radiant floor heating. Snow Melting. Boilers. Indirect water heaters. Tankless water heaters. Current owner BadgerBoilerService.com Minneapolis based mechanical contractor specializing in Mod/Con based, integrated heating systems. System design, consulting and technical training world-wide.
Currently designing hot water based heating and snowmelting systems for spaces ranging from 50 to 50m square feet. Consulting fees start at $500.00US
Experience 30 years. Organizations: Charter Board Member - Radiant Panel Association, former manufacturer of the first American-made, wall-hung, sealed combustion condensing boilers, son and apprentice of mechanical & plumbing contractor.
Continuing Education: Uponor/Wirsbo advanced design school 2007, Power Limited License (low voltage controls) 40 CE credits 2005, B&G Little Red School House 1993, Tekmar Controls residential and commercial 1993, Division Manager and Advanced Hydronic Seminar Host for the first Hydronic Radiant Floor Distributor in the USA 1990, Hydronic Heating Association Workshop participant with Richard c. Bourne, PE spring 1988, Master Plumbing/Hydronic/Solar Course Red Rocks Community College 1987.
Education: B.S. University WI 1981, 26 yrs. continuing education.
Licensed CO, MN & WI. Home Inspection license WI exp.
Awards and Honors: Radiant Panel Association System Showcase Award 2008
My momma's favorite son.
Past/Present Clients: References upon request.
Expert: Morgan M. Audetat Date: 5/15/2008 Subject: radiant over existing slab
Question I would like to install hydronic heating in my finished basement. I have 9 foot ceilings. 1 - Does it make better sense to install over existing slab or to have the slab cut up and installed like new? I have a walkout which would need to be raised etc.. if it goes over top. 2 - I have seen wood products that lay over slab with the channels already in place. What is your opinion? 3 - I keep seeing reference to your web site but could not find the address.
Answer The answer is; it depends. It would be great to take up all the cement, insulate, staple tube down and pore over. However, this is rarely cost effective.
There are several dry systems on the market. Some have built-in insulation and some do not. Rehau, Roth, Watt Radiant, Uponor to name a few. They are all expensive.
Some will argue that you MUST insulate before tubing, but barring high ground water, insulation is normally unnecessary as long as you plan to set and forget your thermostat the majority of the heating season.
I use a tube rail nailed to the existing slab, snap tube to rail and pour Gypcrete 1 1/2" or concrete 2" minimum over the whole of it. If you wish, you can use wooden sleepers between tubes and then apply floor covering to sleepers. Cement board and tile work well in this setup.
My website is listed to the left under credentials, education etc.
