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Reptiles/Flap neck Chameleon. Urgent help PLEASE!


Paula about 8 hrs after the vet visit
Paula about 8 hrs afte  
Paula straight after the vet
Paula straight after t  
QUESTION: 1: Species= Flap Neck Chameleon
2: Habitat Size= Wooden with chicken wire sides. 65cm Tall 72 cm wide
3: Substrate= fake vines and leaves with beach drift wood for climbing and perches
4: Humidity % = 60-70%
5: Bask/Ambient temps= 29 degrees celcius
6: Lighting= Bask lamp (75w 'Exo Terra Sun Glo')Red night light (100 W 'Real Neodymium')UV Light (Coil. 220 V 'Repti)
7: Vet History: None. Only took her for the first time yesterday.
8: Food offered: Only crickets
9: Feeding schedule: 3 crickets in the morning and then however many she wants to eat in the evening.
10: Supplements and schedule: Calcium powder and D3 powder. Dust on ecvening meal.
11: Last feed: She was forcefed 'mush' by the vet yesterday.
12: Water: Water is on constant offer by a waterfall (water gets changed every week) and also mist the cage every morning
13: Defecated last: Vet had to use an enema to help her deficate yesterday. She hadn't defecated for almost 2 weeks before that. She tried to deficate this morning but only a tiny slimy orange head came out.
14: Captive/wild bred: She was found in the wild.
15: Last shed: 1 week ago
16: No other animals are in her cage.

I was worried about my female chameleon when she became a very dark almost balck colour and became lethargic. she never moved from her same spot. She hadnt pooped in a while and slowly began eating less and less. I decided to take her to the vet yesterday, but he handled her very 'hard'and stressed her out a lot.
When he was done with her, she was a weird Yellow colour with dark veins on her body. He also injected her with 3 different things. one was parasite stuff, one was de-worming and another was an antibiotic. She slept the whole day after the vet visit. I figure it was because he stressed her out and the meds made her sleepy.
She got darker in colour in the night, and her face had some sort of white grey around her mouth and eyes. I misted her cage a lot and tried to keep the humidity high and I also opened the side of her mouth and dropped water in. I did it every half a hour.
I was hoping when I woke up this morning she would be better, but there is no change. still sleeping and occassionally keeps one eye half open and the other closed. her eyes are very very sunken and I can see she is dehudrated. I am trying everything to re hydrate her.
The vet said I must bring her back tomorrow, but I am terrifide he will stress her out more and she will die from it...
What do you think is the problem? Please give me some advise on how to re-hydrate her without stressing her too much. How do I force feed her water?
I have also noticed two 'bubble' type things on her head all of a sudden.
I am not sure of her age, but when I found her she was very small, looked like a week old hatchling. That was almost a year ago now.

I hope I have followed your instructions properly and you can help?
I have attached pictures

ANSWER: You are in the US, and this Cham was caught in the wild? Where?
I'm sorry, but I'm going to need you to convert all these measurements to English standard from metric.
I'm also going to need to know exactly what medications the vet gave.
You need to restate what UV lamp you are using. Your description was not adequate.
When was the last time she ate on her own? What size and how many crickets are offered?
In her weakened state I'm going to advise you to not place water in her mouth, as you are placing her at risk of aspiration. Hydration and force feeding should only be done through use of a feeding tube if she is too weak or unwilling to accept it on her own.
She should probably be getting sub cutaneous LRS or Normosol-R at the vet, administered in the thighs, unless this vet is extremely well experienced with giving ICe injections to small reptiles, which I am going to doubt it.
I cannot go farther without the above requested information.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thank you kindly for responding.

I am in South Africa.
I was EXTREMELY fortunate to have found a qualifide vet and he immediatly knew it was because she has eggs. I had a suspision that it was, but the first vet I tookd her to, just snubbed me when I told him I think it's eggs.
She has since had a calcium shot (to calcify the eggs so she can lay them) and also had a shot of fluid to up her hydration.
She doesn't look 100% yet, but she is far better.
She even climbed her perch and is hanging from it slightly (Think it is easier for her to breathe)
I have to force feed her with a tiny syringe with mushed watered down doggie food (apparantly the vitamins etc is what she needs.

But thank you for your help

Well, if you just want to go with that opinion and not render the complete information I asked for, then fine.

A calcium shot is not likely to fix this issue if she is egg bound...Just for your information. Oxytocin or vasotocin would be called for, and it's likely that if any have turned rancid or ruptured, that she is already suffering sepsis. I hope your vet is qualified enough to know this.  


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YOU WILL GET A REJECTION OF YOUR QUESTION IF YOU FAIL TO FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS TO QUESTIONER IN FULL!. I am primarily here to assist with health concerns. I am here for the more difficult questions. Not for questions that you could research & easily find the answer yourself. My standards are that you provide DETAILED and RELEVANT background history on your pet before you ask me any question about it other than GENDER or ID. The requested information is in the instructions to questioner. Failure to answer each of those questions to provide that background, will result in your question being rejected. I can answer questions related reptile husbandry, identification (esp. in Texas and the SW), legal aspects, and advanced level medical care. I am the director of Wichita Falls Reptile Rescue (TX), a wildlife rehabilitator specializing in reptiles, a founding member of The Society for Horned Lizard Preservation, a subscriber to the International Veterinary Information Service,, educational content contributor to, and a Dept of State Health Services accredited animal control instructor (CE) for reptile handling. I do most of my own veterinary care in-house, including minor surgery and necropsy. I am most experienced in Chelonia with box turtles and common smaller tortoises; and in Squamata with everything from Anoles, Geckos, Beardies, and Monitors, to venomous snakes. I am most known for my expertise with horned lizards (Phrynosoma). With snakes, my primary expertise is in Crotalids (rattlesnakes), but I can answer a broad range of questions about various species. I am not aware of any reptile related question that I would not be able to provide some reasonable answer for. I have a direct style and may tell you something you did not want to hear; but the welfare of the animal comes FIRST with me, and I will always reflect that position in my answer, despite how it might make you feel.


I am a non-academic herpetologist with 25+ years reptile experience, and I am an accredited Texas Dept of State Health Services Animal Control Instructor for Reptiles (CE). I am a reptile rescuer, reptile wildlife rehabilitator, and subscriber to the International Veterinary Information Service, wikivet, and article/journal content contributor to Lafebervet. I have medical and scientific resources available, and I perform in house reptile veterinary care for my rescues. I am not a vet, but I read from the same materials and have had to correct quite a few in the past. The average vet is not well versed with reptile physiology and medical treatments.

Animals that I am currently caring for, or have significant rehabilitation and husbandry experience with: Horned Lizards (5 species); Eastern and Western Box Turtles; Painted, RES, YBS, Soft-Shell, and Cooter aquatic turtles; Russian Tortoises; Fire Bellied Toads; Fire Bellied Newts; Ornate Horned Frogs; Green Iguanas; Desert Iguanas; Spiny Lizards; Long Nosed Leopard Lizards; Anoles; Racerunners; Collared Lizards; Bullsnakes; Eastern Ratsnakes; Great Plains Ratsnakes; Kingsnakes; Gartersnakes; Cornsnakes; Boas; Pythons; Bearded Dragons; Water Dragons; Massasauga Rattlesnakes; Western Diamondback Rattlesnakes; Leopard, Mediterranean, Golden, Indo-Pacific, African White-Spotted Geckos; Savannah Monitors; Jeweled Curly-Tailed Lizards; Long-Tailed Grass Lizards; Fox Squirrels; Deer Mice; Hispid Cotton Rats; Merriam's Pocket Mice; Eastern Cotton-Tails; Blue Bar racing pigeon; Budgies; Asian Forest Scorpions.


Co-Founder & Director: Wichita Falls Reptile Rescue

Founder: The Society for Horned Lizard Preservation

Publications contributor. The Horned Lizard Husbandry Manual - self published 75 pages of care information on genus Phrynosoma.

Wikipedia entry "Horned Lizards" - contributed to a majority of the content., and various reptile related forums and email lists under the handles "fireside3" and PhrynosomaTexas".

My hands-on field, rehabilitation, and captive husbandry experience beats a PhD any day of the week. I am also a state accredited animal control instructor for reptile handling.

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I was requested to provide my care manual on the Desert Horned Lizard (Phrynosoma platyrhinos), for the Montreal zoo. My manual is also used by several other zoological institutions in N. America. I also teach reptile education to summer camps, and instruct wildlife rehabilitators on live saving and rehab techniques with reptiles.

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