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About Jeff Vargen
(Top Expert on this page)

Expertise
I`ve been climbing on and off for 25 years, mostly in Yosemite Valley and the Tuolumne Meadows region of Yosemite. I can tell you about the best climbs in the 5.7 - 5.11 range. Also familiar with Berkeley Rocks and Mt. Diablo in the SF Bay Area.

Experience
I climb mostly Trad but do some Sport. I've done routes on every dome in Tuolumne and can give you some tips on route finding, time of year and day to do them.


Publications
Climbing Magazine

   

You are here:  Experts > Recreation/Outdoors > Climbing > Rock Climbing

SubjectDate AskedExpert

static vs. dynamic11/17/2008Jeff Vargen
  Q: What kind of rope would I want for an indoor top rope situation, a static or dynamic rope.
  A: Dynamic. Dynamic ropes stretch a bit and allow for safer falls. The ropes because of the stretch are ...
Still a nice age to start???11/14/2008Jeff Vargen
  Q: I am a 30 year old young woman from Portugal, i ve been practising some trekking and running for 7 ...
  A: I too am Portugues. My grandparents immigrated to the United States for Madiera around 1910. I do ...
mountaineering11/4/2008Jeff Vargen
  Q: Hey Jeff, i want to take mountaineering as a profession or career. so as an expertise will you tell ...
  A: Gaurav, It is impossible for me to tell you the earning potential of this career. Like any other ...
Fun Pinnacles Routes10/10/2008Robert Walton
  Q: I have been climbing in The Pinnacles several times and have led Portent, Rat Race, the First ...
  A: Before I mention a few more climbs, allow me to share a secret: a key technique to succeeding on ...
Fun Pinnacles Routes10/10/2008Robert Walton
  Q: I have been climbing in The Pinnacles several times and have led Portent, Rat Race, the First ...
  A: Jamming is tough to come by at Pinnacles. There are a couple of routes over in the Yaks area which ...
kid+dad looking to transition from gym to rock10/7/2008Jeff Vargen
  Q: My five-year-old daughter is a beast of a climber on plastic. She is very comfortable doing 5.7/5.8 ...
  A: David, I am in the East Bay and am not too familiar with things on the Pennisula. Perhaps someone at ...
Kids route9/28/2008Robert Walton
  Q: I am usually climbing on the East Side of Pinnacles with my buddies. My kids are getting old ...
  A: John Cochrane put up a route for his daughters to learn on. Its name escapes me right now (and I'm ...
tenaya peak NW butress8/29/2008Jeff Vargen
  Q: We are going to visit Yosemite for the first time in late Sept to early Oct. I read several ascent ...
  A: Pauline, Here is a link to Supertopo.com and some listed climbs with ratings and some beta. I have ...
tenaya peak NW butress8/27/2008Jeff Vargen
  Q: We are going to visit Yosemite for the first time in late Sept to early Oct. I read several ascent ...
  A: Pauline, Below is a description of the descent. It seems pretty straight forward, hike off the back ...
Cochise Stonghold8/25/2008Jeff Fassett
  Q: Are there other multipitch bolted routes in the 5.8 to 5.9+ range like Ewephoria at Cochise ...
  A: Joe, Yeah, lot's of new routes going in on the Sheepshead in that range, however, not completely ...
Retiring Climbing Ropes8/23/2008Nicholas Bridgeland
  Q: I know that everyone is saying that there is no definate formual for retiring ropes. I manage a camp ...
  A: Cathi, I'm afraid your first statement is correct, there is no defined formula. This is because ...
Rope and Belay Breakage5/29/2008Robert Walton
  Q: I am doing a piece of work and I am required to find cases where the belay device or the rope has ...
  A: The most notorious example of a rope breaking during a fall came during the first ascent of the ...
Rope and Belay Breakage in Rock Climbing5/29/2008Nicholas Bridgeland
  Q: I am doing a piece of work and I am required to find cases where the belay device or the rope has ...
  A: I personally have never experienced this. The only incident that I can think of was involving a ...
rock climbing gear5/19/2008Jeff Vargen
  Q: Is there a right way and or a wrong way to store your cams or friends after you have used them for ...
  A: Generally heir is not a right and wrong way. However, If your cams have nylon (plastic) sleeves over ...
Climbing4/9/2008Robert Walton
  Q: What is the oldest recorded age of a rock climber?...I know of a gent who..is a few months shy of ...
  A: I can offer personal knowledge only. I'm unaware of any official records in the age department as ...
too unfit to climb?3/9/2008Nicholas Bridgeland
  Q: i've been invited to climb (indoors) by a very cute guy, but i'm mid-30s & pretty unfit in a cardio ...
  A: Well, the good thing is that climbing accommodates participants of every level. You shouldn't feel ...
Ropes/Techniques2/6/2008Jeff Vargen
  Q: Hey Jeff, Aside from some indoor climbing and a few days of rappelling with the military I know ...
  A: Anthony, Welcome to the community of climbing and I'm glad your asking questions it will make your ...
hiii1/23/2008Jeff Vargen
  Q: hows it hanging? i'm in school and i wonderd if you could tell me and my pal greg what the rules are ...
  A: Lexy, There are no specific rules to climbing. There are ways to maximize safety and techniques to ...
solo climbing11/29/2007Jeff Vargen
  Q: Jeff, I've been lead climbing off and on (mainly off) for several years. My problem is there's no ...
  A: William, You are facing the same problem we all face. I am often in the same position as you. As I ...
Never used old rope11/25/2007Jeff Fassett
  Q: I recently purchased some used gear - carabiners, harness, shoes, chalk bags, webbing and the guy ...
  A: Bruce, I don't thing it's a good idea to use any soft goods without knowing the history of the ...
Mount Everest...11/9/2007Robert Walton
  Q: On Discovery Channel I saw a group of climbers walk by a dead body on Mt. Everest. The body was in ...
  A: You must understand that the closest I've ever been to Everest is San Francisco. I was once asked ...
climbing10/16/2007Jeff Vargen
  Q: how many people actually complete witness the fitness?
  A: This is from Wikepedia. There is a mjor article and interview with Chris Sharma in this months ...
Qualification10/10/2007Nicholas Bridgeland
  Q: What type of qualifications are needed to become a climbing instructor? I'm curious and thinking of ...
  A: To my knowledge, there is no government mandated certifications. There are organizations such as ...
no clue what this means10/4/2007Jeff Vargen
  Q: a friend of mine asked me, just to test my knowledge cause he obviously knows, what BARK means in ...
  A: Ther is a BRAK Canyon in Arizona that has seen some climbing activity. There is an adventure race ...
rock climbing9/29/2007Nicholas Bridgeland
  Q: I was wondering if there are any quality climbing areas close to Chicago? thanks Nick
  A: First, I'm very sorry for the delayed response. The answer depends on what type of climbing your ...
multi pich climbing9/24/2007Robert Walton
  Q: So, i've been lead climbing single pitch sport climbs now for about 9 months I'm pretty good at it. ...
  A: By sport climbing, I assume you mean that the climbs are bolted and no or few pieces of trad gear ...
Rock Climbing injury9/19/2007Nicholas Bridgeland
  Q: My husband was rock climbing indoors at a gym and the harness broke, he fell approx 30 feet causing ...
  A: Niki, Not to make light of your situation, but this sounds like a prank. I personally have NEVER ...
re: Climbing in Topeka?9/16/2007Robert Walton
  Q: I recently moved to Ks. in Dec. 2007 from Oregon and found a job supervising an indoor wall, I saw ...
  A: I'm here in California and not aware of resources available in Kansas. I have two suggestions for ...
BOULDERING9/15/2007Jeff Vargen
  Q: YOU SAY BOULDERING IS RATED ON THE V SCALE. WHAT ABOUT JOHN GILL? HE HAD TO FORMULATE HIS OWN SCALE ...
  A: My Understanding is that the B system was developed in Britan and evolved into the V ratings in the ...
Rock Climbing Classes7/26/2007Robert Walton
  Q: I red through one of you explanations about the various classes in Rock climbing and I am totally ...
  A: Climbing is a great sport, but it entails obvious risks. It's best to find good instruction and ...
retirement7/18/2007Nicholas Bridgeland
  Q: when do you retire a rope, what guidelines do you use
  A: I honestly think you'll know when it's time to retire a rope based on the look and feel. Here is ...
Pinnacles "Bill's Bad Bolts"4/5/2007Robert Walton
  Q: Tomorrow I'll be up on one of your routes on Machete, "Bill's Bad Bolts." I would be grateful if ...
  A: I just returned from the Valley this afternoon, so I hope this message reaches you in time. As ...
zRf=4;3/12/2007Jeff Vargen
  Q: I have never rock climed is it hard to do?
  A: The answer is yes and no. Yes it is hard if you step up and try to do it without any instruction. ...
rock climbing2/27/2007Jeff Fassett
  Q: I need a rock climbing expert in s case I have. I am a lawyer in nj and PA. Would you be willing to ...
  A: John, I would be willing to discus the details with you, however, if your case is a climbing ...
exciting and challenging in wall/rock climbing2/17/2007Robert Walton
  Q: Good day... May you sent me sort of introduction bout wall/rock climbing. Thanks!Hi! good day. I ...
  A: Here are four websites which may help. The first is a short article about the sport. The others ...
Mountaineering (?)1/11/2007Nicholas Bridgeland
  Q: I am writing a story and ran into a question that I cannot find an answer to. At this part of the ...
  A: Unfortunatley, I do not have an abundance of experience in mountaineering. However, I can tell you ...
gf1/9/2007Jeff Vargen
  Q: I am goin to be starting climing in school but i dont know how, how would i do it?
  A: Tiffany, I assume that if you are going to be climbing in school they will be offering instruction. ...
Starting out12/6/2006Jeff Vargen
  Q: Hey Jeff. I have been thinking about taking up climbing and was wondering where to begin. Also, just ...
  A: I've never climbed Everest, I'm more of a rockclimber than a mountaineer. I would suggest going to ...
Mount Everest11/22/2006Nicholas Bridgeland
  Q: Our local theater keeps showing a commerical for the Discovery Channel about Mount Everest. I was ...
  A: The mountain is acutally growing. It is the highest mountain in the world and is currently ...
rock climbing11/16/2006Jeff Vargen
  Q: i am doing a project for gcse btec at my school.i can't find a good website where i can find the ...
  A: Rock climbing does not have any real rules. Indoor climbing gyms may have their own set of rules ...

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