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About Jeff Vargen
Expertise
I`ve been climbing on and off for 25 years, mostly in Yosemite Valley and the Tuolumne Meadows region of Yosemite. I can tell you about the best climbs in the 5.7 - 5.11 range. Also familiar with Berkeley Rocks and Mt. Diablo in the SF Bay Area.

Experience
I climb mostly Trad but do some Sport. I've done routes on every dome in Tuolumne and can give you some tips on route finding, time of year and day to do them.


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You are here:  Experts > Recreation/Outdoors > Climbing > Rock Climbing > tenaya peak NW butress

Topic: Rock Climbing



Expert: Jeff Vargen
Date: 8/27/2008
Subject: tenaya peak NW butress

Question
We are going to visit Yosemite for the first time in late Sept to early Oct.  I read
several ascent notes on Tenaya Peak NW buttress route and most of them said
they have problems finding the descent route.  Any tips on finding the descent
route?

Answer
Pauline,
Below is a description of the descent. It seems pretty straight forward, hike off the back of Tenaya Peak, you should find Class 1-2 hiking to get off the peak.

My concern is the time of year you are going to do this climb.  It's a 30 minute approach and an all day climb. Full Day from Car to Car.  At that time of year, you can expect temps to be in the 50's to 60's in Tuolumne and it get dark and cold early.  Many climbers have gotten themselves in serious trouble doing long climbs at this time of year.  Including a death last Fall on the trail back from Cathedral Peak from hypothermia after they got lost in the dark on the walk back.

Unless you are VERY fast and simul-climb this route, I would find more accessible routes.

Try
Hermaphrodite Flake & South Crack - Stately Pleasure Dome
The Tree  & The Dike - Pywick Dome
Northwest Books & Crying Time Again - Lembert Dome
West Crack - Daff Dome

Hike down to Mildred Lake and follow the drainage back out around the south side of the SW Ridge. Stay right (north) of the drainage for the easiest (and shortest) way back. Many climbers make the mistake of trying to hike out to the Sunrise Trail to take that back to Tenaya Lake. The cross-country travel is easy and enjoyable here, and there is no need to hike that far west to get back. Simply follow the contours around to the north.

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