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About Jeff Vargen
Expertise
I`ve been climbing on and off for 25 years, mostly in Yosemite Valley and the Tuolumne Meadows region of Yosemite. I can tell you about the best climbs in the 5.7 - 5.11 range. Also familiar with Berkeley Rocks and Mt. Diablo in the SF Bay Area.

Experience
I climb mostly Trad but do some Sport. I've done routes on every dome in Tuolumne and can give you some tips on route finding, time of year and day to do them.


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Climbing Magazine

 
   

You are here:  Experts > Recreation/Outdoors > Climbing > Rock Climbing > Mt. Diablo area bouldering

Rock Climbing - Mt. Diablo area bouldering


Expert: Jeff Vargen - 11/4/2009

Question
Hi-
I have only been climbing for about 6 months now and would really like to take it outdoors. Could you fill me in on some bouldering routs in the Mt. Diablo area? I know the trails and the Mountain pretty well I just don't know the bouldering spots.
Thank you,
-s

Answer
Hi Shawn,
Mt Diablo has a couple spots to climb/boulder. I would say the bouldering is not great as without a rope it is dangerous.  All routes can be top roped.  The main and most developed is known as Boy Scout Rocks. It is near the South entrance gate to the park.   You can park in a turn oujt before the rocks or at the large parking picnic area called City of Rocks and walk back 300 yards to the rocks.   The approach is down hill from the road. There are 3 "tiers" of rocks as they call them at Diablo.  The climbs are pretty obvious, all with anchor bolts and some climbs with lead bolts.

The rock is sandstone and very unstable after a rain.  Rock Climbing in The San Francisco Bay Area published by Falcon has good descriptions.

Jeff

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