Expert: Dale Rooftime Shoemaker - 10/29/2009

Question
QUESTION: Hi,
I'm in the northeast, and have a 25+ year old house.  Part of it has a cathedral ceiling and part of it has an attic.  The part with the cathedral ceiling gets ice dams.  Ventilation for both parts is ventilated drip edge plus ridge vents.  I have some questions on one of my quotes:
-they will put in an 8" drip edge but will NOT replace my existing ventilated drip edge.  I think he said the new drip edge would just be we where the sides of the shingles are exposed.  Should I insist on getting a new ventilated drip edge as well?
-I heard that you don't want to put down shingles when it is too cold out because there's some adhesive on the shingles that doesn't seal properly (or something...).  Can you give me an idea as to what temperatures would still be acceptable?  These would be GAF timberline prestique.
-Is it important for me to get extra ventilation in the area (cathedral) that gets ice dams?  One roofer said I definitely needed to do it, while the other said that is was pointless unless we knew there were clear channels going up to the ridge vents, and pulling all the plywood to figure that out was not worth the expense.  What do you think?  Can I just put in some soffit vents (to supplement the ventilated drip edge) myself?
Thanks!  I hope you're not too busy, 'cause I have to get this figured out in the next day or two...

ANSWER: Hello from a sunny Cincinnati Ohio...

It sounds like you now have a better grasp of the problems with venting a modern styled structure, than most of my competition down here!

Keep in mind that roofing is an UN-licensed profession by the feds....there are some areas that demand a local license, but that is basically always more of a bureaucracy thing, than based on actual specs, knowledge, or specifications! In other words...you are hearing two opposite options, because there is NO guiding STANDARD in place!

please visit my web page at www.time2roof.com, I have two very good pages dedicated to winter / cold weather roofing hosted there! I think it would be best for your home if you ask your roofer to review the information I have posted there and see if he is in agreement, or convinces you that some other way is fine! again....NO standard in place, so roofer by roofer, operates differently...and the manufacturer's remain largely silent!

As to the venting issue....it sounds like you are leaning to the opinion that MORE ventilation, the better...if so, AMEN! As to the roofer saying he must remove the plywood to see, I would ask; why? If I was biding the work for my company Roof Time, we would proceed on the assumption that the insulation, baffles, framing are all installed to FHA spec, and so apply the new roof system, in accordance! To discover sometime down the road that your home is baffled and installed correctly, but you lack sufficient roof vents, would mean a larger retro-fit bill! Why not install the maximum venting option available NOW during the roof work, and at the LEAST, you will IMPROVE the ventilation...even if the channels are clogged, closed or open!


Here are some links you can visit to learn more, and I wish you teh best of luck with teh new roof!

http://www.homeadditionplus.com/Roofing-info/Cold-Weather-Roofing.htm

http://www.roofhelp.com/winterroofing.htm

http://www.professionalhome.com/ceilings.html

http://www.roofer911.com/roofing-articles/proper-roof-ventilation-system.htm

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: thanks for all the pointers.  I will take a look.  Do you think it is important to have my current ventilated drip edge replaced as part of the roof job, or is reusing the current (20+ yrs old) one fine?

Answer
Hey....well hard to say with certianity, because I cannot examine the existing pieces...but in general, if they are clear and not clogged and can be preserved in a good condition, during the tear-off phase of the project, they might be good to go, as is! After all, they are just an aluminum covering over the intake cuts, so you might be able to just keep them.....if you can get the linear foot measurement for them, you can price the replacement online from a supply house. they are not typically very expensive and are usually sold in 10' sticks......

check here:  www.lomanco.com