AboutRon Haynes Expertise I can answer questions related to all types of steep slope and low-slope commercial and residential roofing, including asphalt shingles, metal roofing, built-up roofing (tar and gravel), modified bitumen roofing, single ply roof systems, tile, and slate. Questions may relate to design, installation, problem resolution or repair of the roof system.
Experience I have over twenty years experience as a roof consultant dealing with various types of roof systems on commercial, industrial, residential and Government facilities. Experience includes new roof and reroof design, roof repair specification, roof construction, maintenance, failure investigations, performance analysis, inspections, moisture intrusion surveys and studies, and storm damage assessments. I am a registered professional engineer and a Registered Roof Consultant with the Roof Consultants Institute.
Organizations Roof Consultants Institute
Education/Credentials Bachelors Degree in Civil Engineering
Registered Professional Engineer
Registered Roof Consultant, Roof Consultants Institute Certified Infrared Thermographer
Awards and Honors Award Winner, Large Roof Replacement Design Document Competition at the 1999 Roof Consultants Institute International Convention. Dept of Navy Meritorious Civilian Service Award. Armed Forces Civilian Service Medal.
Question part of the sheathing has to be replced because it rotted, about two feet by fifteen feet.The rest is ok. It rotted beause the vertical wall adjacent to it wasnt stuccoed right and it leaked.
Q.: The shingles are all good on the rest of the roof, can they remove some of them, and them work the new ones into the old ones by under- and over-lapping,so that the whole roof doesnt have to be re -shingled.
Then the sheathing (6x1's)rotted, the shingles collapsed and created a hole about five inches in diameter.I repaired it temporarily with a big coffee can and some spray foam!!!
Answer Tom,
The roofer will want to sell you a new roof because it means more money in pocket, but yes, the shingles in the area of damaged deck can be removed to allow for the deck repair and then new shingles 'woven' into the existing.
The removal should start at the wall line and remove full length shingles moving away from the wall until the area of deck damage is exposed for repair. After deck repair and new underlayment application, the new shingles are then applied to abut the existing shingles and move toward the wall line, started at the most downslope location and work upslope. The last line/course of shingles is the trickiest if the work does not extend to the ridge line. If a new shingles needs to tuck under an existing course above, the installer will have to break the bond of the shingle tabs in the next course up (i.e., two courses up from the new shingle) and remove the lower line of nails in the existing shingle immediately above where the new shingle will be installed. Cut about 2" to a max of 3" off the top of the new shingle and slip it under the existing. Align the bottom edge of the new shingle to match the exposure on the rest of the roof. Apply roof cement under the existing shingle to lay atop the new shingle. Work the cement high into the overlap area. Gun-grade roof cement works well for this. Install the nails in the new shingle then re-nail the existing course immediately above and seal the nail penetrations with roof cement. Reset the tabs on the shingles in the 2nd course above and seal with roof cement under the tabs. You're done.
The only catch is that the new shingles will not exactly match the existing shingles and the difference in appearance will depend on the age/weathering of the existing and the degree of dirt mold/mildew on the existing.
