Expert: Ron Haynes - 10/16/2006

Question
What type of person would be qualified to performe this work?  I am assuming a roofer?  Also, does the entire wall and ceiling need to be replaced from the water damage?
-------------------------

Followup To

Question -
We noticed last night that their is a leak near our chimney during a rain storm.  What first caught my attention was that the wall and ceiling were damp.  I then noticed a puddle of water on the side of the inside of the chimney.  Approximently five years ago we had our roof replaced and am wondering if this might be covered under that warranty.  I have read about the flashing and tarring in that area, could this help?

Answer -
Jamey,

The problem could be the sheet metal flashing at the chimney, deteriorated sealant on the sheet metal flashing, failure of shingle seal or nails backing out of shingles at the chimney, leakage through the chimney top cap (sheet metal or mortar if a brick chimney), cracks or voids in mortar joints of brick chimney above the roof line, or leakage through the brick in such volume during a long or heavy rainstorm that the water infilitrates behind flashing.  None of these problems are covered under a warranty unless the roofing contractor provided an extended 5 year warranty which is highly unlikely.

The fix involves examining the area to see what is wrong or contributing.  Check the top of the chimney and seal any cracks in mortar cap or openings in metal with a high temperature resistant sealant (available at big box home improvement stores).  Make sure the sealant used in this area is a high temperature sealant.  Repair open mortar joints by applying new mortar packed into joint.  Repair separation between brick and mortar with a carefull application of sealant to fill the crack.  Don't butter the whole joint because it will look like crap.  Use a polyurethane sealant of color to reasonably match the mortar.  Reseal any deteriorated or unadhered sealant at the sheet metal flashing to the chimney.  Check shingle tabs.  If the tabs right next to the chimney are not sealed down at the base of the chimney, lift them and look for open nail holes in shingles or flashing.  Look for nails backing out of shingles or flashing and rest and seal where necessary.  Apply roof cement under the shingle tabs and seal over flashing next to the chimney.  Also consider placing a line of sealant at the outer edge of the shingle next to the chimney.  

If the chimney was only flashing with roof cement and webbing/mesh, a new application of roof cement should hold for a few years.  But, the chimney should really be flashed with sheet metal.

It is not that unusual to find water inside the chimney but you should not have it running to the outside so that it damages ceiling and wall.  If you do not have a rain hood chimney cap you might want to consider installing one to help keep water out of the inside of the chimney.

I hope the above information helps.  Good luck with the fix.  If you need a contractor to do the work, expect to pay $100-$300 depending on what actually needs to be done.

Ron

Answer
Unfortunately, the answer to this one is not easy.  Roofers should know roofing but not necessarily masonry.  Masons should know masonry but don't expect them to understand roofing.  A competent roofer or good general handyman should be able to tell you if the problem is roof or sheet metal flashing related and fix those types of items.  And, one really only needs common sense with a basic construction understanding to make the call on the potential brick and mortar issues and implement the fixes suggested above. I'd suggest you list out these potential items to look for and give them to  your roofer or handyman.  Make sure someone "intelligent" is up on the roof looking at these issues and not just a hammer slinger.

Depending on the extent of your water damage to wall and ceiling, you might be able to simply apply 2 coats of oil-based Kilz primer to the damaged area and repaint.  If the water damage is wdiespread or has left the material soft and with damage to the painted paper on its interior surface, then it needs to be removed and replaced.  

There's the scary word "mold" these days, but I wouldn't get carried away with this issue, unless you have moderate to highly allergic occupants in the house.  Any mold contained above the ceiling or in the wall cavity is of minimal concern, if any concern at all, once the moisture source is removed.  Minor mold on the interior surface is sealed with Kilz.  If removing moldy sheetrock, it is best to seal the surface to contain the mold spores prior to removal.  This can be done with primer paint or plastic and tape to seal off the moldy area on the sheetrock.

Good luck.

Ron