AboutLauren Gilkey Expertise I can answer questions pertaining to local culture and daily living for Westerners (expats) and what they do for vacation within Saudi. I am limited to questions about the Western Coast, since I never visited the Eastern part of the country. I have knowledge about Yanbu, Jeddah, Medinah, and Abhah. I can also answer general questions about what it was like to live there, etc.
Experience I lived in Yanbu for 4 years and did some travelling in the country.
Question I live in the USA but plan to visit KSA soon. I have two black abayas but I don't know what color hijab I have to wear, black? Should I wear a full face veil, just a head cover, or just my eyes in view? I know my ankles must be covered, but can I wear any shoe or must it also be black? If I travel alone (single woman) will I be open to harrassment? Should I take another female, or a male? Thank you! I'm very excited to make this trip...and to join the local traditions.
Answer Dear Sarah,
Oh you brave and lucky person! Having the abayas ahead of time is a great plan. You will notice that, when you board the plane to Jeddah, many of the women will be wearing "regular clothes" and then will change into their full Abaya and hijab when they are 1-2 hours away from landing.
Anyways, to respect local customer, it is a good idea to wear the abaya off the plane. As a non-Muslim, you are not required to cover your head or your face. This is very important - it is your right as a non-Muslim to not cover your head - covering your face is not a requirement at all. However, due to the sensitivity of current politics and religion, I would recommend that you cover your head. Black is the most traditional color, but any dark color would be ok.
Yes, your ankles must be covered. You can wear any shoes you like. Bear in mind that you will no doubt be walking a lot and the streets will be dusty (KSA is mostly desert, after all) and they are dirty. I recommend walking shoes/tennis shoes. The color is not important. (The Arab world is a very colorful culture, our ideas of having to match do not necessarily apply to abaya and hijab. After all, if you are wearing mostly black, wouldn't you want to "spice" up your wardrobe with eye-catching colors?)
Now to one point that greatly concerns me. You mentioned travelling alone. DO NOT do this. Women have very few rights in KSA, and as a Western woman you will, in some ways, have fewer. Women are not permitted to travel alone in KSA. Do not be surprised if the Matawa (Religious police) demand proof of marriage and ask where your husband is. It is not safe to travel alone. I do not recommend that you bring a woman-friend to come with you. This will just draw more attention to you. Actually, any number of women alone, especially non-Arab/non-Muslim will draw a lot of attention.
Definately bring a male friend with you... especially someone who is not afraid to pretend to be your husband in public if necessary. If you have a brother/uncle that is even better. (Male cousin is ok, but may be considered as inappropriate since in Saudi you can marry your cousin. Best approach: Do not draw attention to the fact that you are single. If you bring a man with you, do not be publicly affectionate, but referring to him as your husband would be a good idea.
A good book to really study the culture, along with some very realistic expectations of the kind of reception you will get is "Culture Clash - Saudi Arabia." You can find it on Amazon or perhaps in a local Barnes & Nobles or Borders Books. Its written specifically for expats going to KSA.
Ok, now I have a question for you, if that's alright. How are you planning on entering KSA? I'm assuming you are going either for professional reasons so you have an invitation from the government or a KSA-based business, or you are fortunate enough to have received a tourist Visa that is restricted to Scuba Diving and tours by a goverment-recognized business. Just curious - I'd love to go back to visit myself, but getting a Visa is very difficult.
If you have any other questions, please let me know. I think its wonderful that you want to go and visit. It is a beautiful country with a wonderful culture that too few know.
