Security & Fire Protection Systems/fa147c alarm panel
QUESTION: Hi Dave, I have an FA147C Alarm panel and the alarm horn only partially beeps when the alarm is supposed to sound. i tested the horn and it works. any ideas?
ANSWER: Hello Mike, and thanks for writing.
A couple of questions so I better understand the situation:
1. When you say "horn," do you mean the small sounder in the keypad, or the big siren?
2. How did you test the horn?
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QUESTION: Hi Dave, and thanks for responding. Its the big siren. i
I tested it by applying voltage from the trasns former and itworked every time i tried it
Thanks for the additional information, Mike.
The siren is powered by the system's standby battery, because the battery is better-equipped to provide the necessary amperage to operate. The transformer, on the other hand, is meant to keep the battery charged at full efficiency.
Based on what you've told me, I'd suspect that the battery is not holding a full charge. You can test this theory easily enough. Just disconnect the AC (unplug the transformer, or disconnect one on the wires from the transformer at the control#.
If you have a meter and measure the battery, a good battery will read approximately 12 volts. A poor battery will read a lot less than that.
If you don't have a meter, you can still test by waiting four hours or so #the system will be powered only by the battery during this time#, and then seeing if the system will operate at all.
A good battery is capable of powering the system for four hours during a power failure, and then being able to power the siren for a minimum of five minutes.
Just in case, I'm attaching below an article I wrote about replacing the alarm battery yourself. It may help you out.
Replacing Alarm Batteries
Your alarm system has a rechargeable backup battery that keeps it running when the regular power goes out. Manufacturers estimate that these batteries have a useful life of five to seven years, although in practice many last longer than this.
Backup batteries are supervised by most alarm controls, meaning that when the battery is missing, fails, or does not charge correctly, a trouble condition is generated. Depending on the system, the trouble condition is annunciated at the keypad, and/or transmitted to a monitoring center who in turn will contact the system owner.
While your system will still operate under AC power with a weak or dead battery, it’s a good idea to deal with the issue as soon as you can, for two reasons. First, if there is a power outage, your system will probably not work. Second, when a battery is weak, the charging circuit in the control tries harder to charge the battery. This consumes more power, and as a byproduct, generates heat. Now we’re not talking about setting anything on fire, but the additional heat can stress electronic components and shorten their lives. If this happens, it’s likely that the main board in the control will have to be replaced.
If you have a maintenance agreement with an alarm vendor, replacement is as easy as making a phone call. The battery may be even covered by warranty. On the other hand, if you own the alarm equipment or don’t have a service agreement, you can replace the battery yourself. Here’s how to go about it.
First, if your system is monitored, call them and let them know that you’ll be working on your system. Doing this prevents unwanted calls from the monitoring center, if your work generates alarm or trouble signals. By the same token, you must call them again when you’re finished, so that they’ll again pay attention to signals that your system generates.
Next locate the main control panel, which will usually be located near to the keypad, tucked away in a closet or the basement. Remove the cover.
In the bottom of the cabinet, you’ll see the backup battery, connected to the main board by a red and a black wire. Normally these wires have connectors that plug onto the battery posts. Take a look at those connections, which should be tight and clean. If you see an accumulation of chalky gray powder around the terminals, you may have to replace the connectors as well. That’ll depend on whether the old connector #after cleaning with an old toothbrush# is in good enough condition to re-use.
The next step is to find the battery specifications. Look at the hookup diagram on the inside of the cover. You’ll usually find the specifications there. If the diagram is missing or does not have the specs, you can get them off the old battery itself. Here’s what you’ll need.
There are three parts to the specification: voltage, capacity, and battery type.
The voltage is the easiest, and most alarm panels use 12 volt batteries.
The capacity will be listed in either ampere hours #abbreviated aH# or milliampere hours #abbreviated maH#.
The battery type refers to the chemical composition of the battery. It’s important to select the correct type because the charging circuit is designed for that type. The common types are Nickle Cadmium #NICAD#, Sealed Lead Acid #SLA#, and Gel Cell #GC).
With this information in hand, you can shop the Internet for a replacement. Perform a Google search for “alarm battery” or “DIY alarms.” You’ll get several vendors, each with a means to drill down to batteries. You’ll find several different brands as well. You don’t have to get the same brand that you had, but the specifications need to match. Voltage and type must be an exact match. The capacity can vary a bit. For example, if you have a 4 aH battery, a 4.5 aH battery will be fine. Just keep in mind that the higher the capacity, the larger the battery’s dimensions will be. While there’s usually plenty of space in the cabinet, getting an 8 aH battery to replace one that’s 4 aH will probable not fit in the cabinet.
Once you get the battery, replacement is as easy as unplugging the old one, and plugging in the new one. It will begin to charge immediately, and any trouble condition should clear within a few minutes.