Security & Fire Protection Systems/napco ma1000e reset?
QUESTION: I have the napco ma1000e hardwire set up, 2 pads, 2 motion and door chimes. I was gutting my bath to stud and rerouting wires so things are correct behind walls.
I disconnected the motion sensor and moved around corner stuck wire through new hole and attached wires back up they way they were, now the system is dead and I have no clue what to do. I have disconnected battery and reconnect. still dead pads?
how to I reset or fix this so alarm is functional again?
Thank you so very much
ANSWER: Hello Amy, and thanks for writing.
From your description, I suspect the the motion detector was powered from the control -- there were four wires you had to reconnect, yes? Two of the wires were the alarm circuit, and the other two were for power.
When you fished the wires to the new location, you likely shorted the power wires, and this in turn blew a fuse in the control panel.
The same auxilary power bus that feeds the motion detector also powers the keypads.
So I think you just need to replace the fuse.
I can't give you exact instructions for this, because the model number you gave is just for the keypad, and not the control. However, I think you'll see 4 fuses on the main board, and I'm guessing that either F2 or F3 is the one that's blown.
These are glass tube fuses, and it's usually pretty easy to see whether the filament in the tube is broken. If you find it, just take the fuse to Radio Shack and get a new one.
I hope this helps!
[an error occurred while processing this directive]---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Thank you Dave
yes its powered from control, yes 4 wires,
the panel is IC403 24 otp listed on mother board
I found the fuses there are 2 (with pullers attached ;) )
one looks like a straight line and the other seems to have a zigzag line, does the zigzag mean I toasted it? yes its F2 n F3 (aux pwr), F3 is the zigzag lookin one.
Thanks again so very much for your help
the motion sensor I moved is a DS835 I actually took a pic of the wires before removing them and referred to it when hooking them back up.
Thanks for the follow-up, Amy, and my apologies for not getting back to you sooner.
First, the wiggly wires inside the fuses are not indicative of a blown fuse. It's just a different kind of filament.
What you're looking for is a break in the filament, whether the filament is straight or zig-zag, or whether there seems to be soot on the inside of the glass tube. Without being able to check the fuses with a multimeter, this is the only way you can safely judge whether the fuse is blown.
From your description, it may be that the fuses aren't blown, but I may be misinterpreting what you see.
If in fact the fuses are intact, there's still some troubleshooting that you can do.
First is there anything illuminated on the keypad? For example there should be an indicator for AC power that's illuminated all the time.
If you don't see the AC power indicator, see if you can find the transformer for the control. This will typically be about the size of two cigarette packs, beige in color, and plugged into a wall outlet near to the control box's location (not the keypad).
When you find it, feel it to see if it's warm. If it's cold, is it possible that you turned of a circuit breaker while doing your renovations... or possible popped a circuit breaker?
Let me know what you find!