About Vinette de Phillipe Expertise I have many years of experience and can answer most questions pertaining to sewing, altering patterns, finding notions, and more.
Experience I have been making my own clothes since 1957. Have taught many classes both for young and adults, including my two boys.
Question QUESTION: I'm 5'11" with long legs and apparently a long torso. I would like to alter a basic pants (pajama style) pattern to fit me properly but just adding length at the "add length here" line (rise section) doesn't work quite right. It seems that I need it to be a tad longer in the back than in the front. I don't really have a larger backside than average. My waist is about 32 and hips about 41. I recently made an elastic waist pair of pants - added 1" to the rise =- and ended up having to serge off the extra, make 2 darts in the back because the waist seemed huge etc. I added about 5 inches to the length which was about right. They just don't seem to fit right in the rise. Help? I'd also like to add pockets on the seamlines. I really don't feel like I know what I'm doing. Fly front pants are too advanced for my limited skills. I'd love to make some using linen, but I don't want to ruin the fabric.
thanks for any and all help or suggestions for a pattern?
ANSWER: HI Susie
Usually the best way to adjust the rise (crotch length) is by using the center back and front seams.
These form a ""U" shape.
Here are some sites on fitting pants that may be of help
QUESTION: Does this incorporate the crotch "curve"? I don't know why I'm having such a hard time understanding this.
The back waist is almost always too low (so split the pattern at the point where the rise is adjusted and lengthen the center back seam?). The front is sometimes too high (split the pattern at the point where the rise is adjusted and pull the two pieces together at the front seam?) I'm hoping this would be a simple adjustment on elastic waist pants but could be much more difficult on fly front pants? In addition I need to make sure the outside leg seam is adjusted accordingly?
Am I interpreting this correctly? In order to get the measurements I need for adjustment - how do I get those. I don't have anyone to help measure. I think the back is only short by about 1". The front about the same maybe a little less. This info is loosely based on how my pants fit and not by any measurements I've actually taken.
ANSWER: HI Susie,
Yes, this uses the crotch curve and not the pattern adjustment lines.
When I adjust the crotch area, I do not use the adjustment lines on the pattern, as doing so will change the length of the side seam.
I make the depth of the "U" to fit. This way the overall length of the pants stays the same. Using this method, also, does not involve the zipper fly.
Sometimes how something fits is a better gauge than taking measurements.
I suggest finding a pair of pants that fit you the way you like and turning them inside out and compare to the pattern and make adjustments to the paper pattern in crotch area by changing the depth of the "U".
hope this helps
vi
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: I guess this just doesn't make sense. I bought the flexible ruler - turned a pair of pants inside out (ones that fit very well).
My problem has always been that the rise is too short in the back but after doing the aforementioned - the ruler shows I need to shorten the rise by almost 2 inches and the crotch curve needs to be shortened. I know that won't work. My crotch depth measures 11" as I measure it with a ruler. Even the pattern measures 12". Something just doesn't compute. I measured the pattern from the waistline mark on the pattern and on me - I measured - sitting down with a hard ruler - from the chair up to my waist.
thanks for the help, but unless there is another way to do this aside from making and remaking a pants pattern, I'll have to find someone locally that can help.
Thank you all again. You provide a great service. I just wish I knew how to apply your advice.
Answer HI Susie,
Here is another suggestion
take the pants that fit well. turn inside out, one leg inside the other so that the "U" is easily seen. place the paper pattern over the pants and see what the differences are from pant to pattern.
Sorry I am not close enough to assist you in person,
