AboutSharon Vogel Expertise I can answer general sewing questions as well as tailoring, heirloom, menswear, children's wear, craft sewing, quilting and just about any fabric or notion. I can also help with some sewing machine repair and maintenance.
Experience I started sewing at the age of 3...thanks to my mom and grandmother, and I am now in my fifties. Home economics classes in junior high and high school helped me to finesse my skills.
Education/Credentials Palmer and Plesch tailoring class
Basically, self-taught...give me the instructions and I will figure it out and then make it better!
Awards and Honors A few blue ribbons at fairs along the way
Question QUESTION: I am in the process of altering all of my work pants/slacks instead of buying all new ones.
I'm a newbie but I catch on really fast and take my time to ensure the best quality.
With that being said, I just want to make the majority of my pants fit in the thigh and lower leg areas. I've lost a significant amount of weight and am starting my consulting business so I need to dress the part! I don't think I really need to alter the crotch or hind areas, but if you suggest that I do, I will.
So if you can explain (as simple as possible, LOL) where to start it would be greatly appreciated. Based on reading your other posts I'm guessing I would start by removing the inner and outer leg seams. Pin/mark the new fitting then re-sew?? Please fill in...
THANKS!
~Mo
ANSWER: Dear Monique,
Congratulations on the weight loss! Now, on to the pants!
I find it easier to fit a garment when it is on the body wrong side out, although others may say that is wrong because you have the right leg on the body's left leg, etc. But, if you are altering store bought pants, they were made with both legs the same size and you are probably going to take them in just about the same amount on both sides. And are you really going to be so lop sided that a pants leg alteration is going to make that much difference?
For a general idea of how much you will be taking out of the pants, measure your hips and compare this measurement to a sizing chart for ladies' pants. For generalities, say the pants are size 20 and your measurements now show you to be a 14 (woohoo!) There will be about a 4 inch difference. (legs kind of follow the hip measurement) You have four seams in your pants, so basically you would be taking out an inch on each seam. To take out an inch, you will pin the seam in 1/2 inch. This is your basic reference. You can now turn the pants wrong side out, and pin the seams in the estimated amount. Decide on a point to taper your seam from, the knee or whatever, and pin your way up the outside of the leg tapering to a point below the waist and then the inside. If you don't want to reduce the crotch length, taper back to the crotch seam.
Carefully, put the pants on wrong side out.(ouch! I know that hurts! Stupid pins!) If they seem to fit okay, then YaY!, go sew them up. If they are pulling here or there or not hanging quite right, move the pins. Adjust until you are satisfied and then baste the seams. Be careful sewing over pins. You can mess up the timing on your sewing machine! ( I know, I have done it.) Now, remove the pins and put the pants back on, right side out this time. If everything looks good to you, take them off and make the seams permanent. Take out the old seams and finish the seam edges if need be. Then press the seams and you are ready for that new business!
Good luck and let me know if I can be of further assistance.
Sharon
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Thank you SO much Sharon! I truly appreciate the information. I am so excited...I have a goal to try to do two pairs over the weekend! I do have three questions though...
1. Do I have to remove the entire hem before altering my pants? (By the way...How do I hem pants w/o the sewing line showing through on the outside of the pants?)
2. When you say taper "back" to the crotch seam, what do you mean? I am trying to visually do what you are saying. I don't want to reduce the crotch seam.
3. Okay, so I have my measurements and I went from a 18/16 to a 14 (so proud of that!) How do I calculate the amount of inches to take out? The pants that i am experimenting with are a 16. I'm "guesstimating" an inch and a half??
Dear Monique,
1. No, you do not need to remove the hem before altering. After you have taken the pants up, check to see if the length is still good and adjust the hem at that time. The following is a link to some hand stitching techniques you might like to know. I would use the blind stitch on the pants hem. http://www.coatsandclark.com/Crafts/Sewing/Howtos/Hand+Sewing.htm
2. Taper back(or could be down) means to sew your seam at an angle to a defined point where you merge your stitching with the existing seam. (see the attached image)
3. I went to a sizing chart (say JC Penney's) online and compared measurements for sizes of women's clothing. You are probably guessing about right. I would start with about 3/8 inch takeup on each seam and adjust from there.
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