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About Jenna McAuliffe
Expertise
I can answer most questions about sewing, altering or repairing clothes or home furnishings, drapes, roman blinds, crafts, pattern alteration... the list goes on!

Experience
My mother started me sewing when I was 4 and I’ve never stopped! I trained as a fashion designer 15 years ago and have been specializing in weddings since then, along with a side business in making drapes, blinds and home furnishings for commercial contracts. I also participate in just about every kind of craft I can find.

Education/Credentials
Bfa.fashion and a whole lifetime of figuring it out!

Awards and Honors
First in class at graduation, first in tailoring. Finalist in NZ Smokefree awards 1998

 
   

You are here:  Experts > Home/Garden > Arts and Crafts > Sewing > invisible zipper with sheer overlay

Sewing - invisible zipper with sheer overlay


Expert: Jenna McAuliffe - 10/8/2009

Question
I am making a wedding dress for my niece(simplicity 3502) and I am stuck on how to use an invisible zipper without sewing the sheer to the fabric. I understand how to put the zipper in just don't know how i can keep the sheer fabric loose and flowing as it should be and since you put in the zipper before the seem I am lost on how to get the two together for the zipper yet loose for the flow of the dress. Any help would be great.

Answer
Hi Diana!

The sheer overlay should be ept out of the zipper except in the bodice and waistband.

In the bodice and waistband, treat the extra layer as a part of the same fabric as the underlay - in fact it may be easier for you to stitch the two layers together so that they are easier to work with as one 'layer'.  Below the waistband, you should sew the centre back seam of the overlay fabric to the same point as the underlay and lining - i.e. to the bottom of the zipper length (pattern will be marked).  After this, don't sew it into the zipper - instead, roll the raw edges of the sheer fabric under (like a rolled hem) and stitch them down, so that they sit open at the centre back seam, but are not included in the zipper.  This keeps the overlay free.

You may also choose to stitch a few invisible domes or small hook-eye sets into the opening of the overlay if it gapes visibly.  This depends on the type of overlay fabric used - you may not need to do it.

Hope this helps and please ask if I can help you more!

Jenna :)

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