About Sarah Expertise Pattern making, fitting, fabric choices, garment construction, design choices - all aspects of making a garment! I'm a professional in the fashion industry. I'm responsible for fitting garments on live models, making garment construction choices that make sense for the fabrics, approving wash care instructions, patternmaking and draping on the form. I work with wovens and knits. My garments have won numerous awards (both design and construction) throughout my college career.
Experience Graduated BFA in fashion design; Currently work as a technical designer/pattern make/fitter for a large contemporary fashion company for 2+ years.
Organizations Philadelphia Sewing Collective - www.phillysewing.org
Education/Credentials BFA in Fashion Design from Moore College of Art & Design; Summa Cum Laude
Question I have a jacket and also a simple black dress that apparently require a bigger and lower bust, since there is a bit of bagging underneath my bust when I put them on. Is there a way to alter them to reduce that baggy area? They otherwise fit well in the back, but I have not worn them due to the poor fit in the front. Thank you for your help.
Answer Hi Elizabeth,
I recieved updated information from you, quoted below.
After looking at the image, it looks as though you're going to need to shape the front dart. If you laid the pattern for that style out, it would probably have a dart that is a straight line from the apex to the waist. Even if it isn't, it doesn't have enough shape for your body, or not the correct shape. I'm assuming the apex area fits fine, and the waist area fits fine, and your only problem is directly under the bust.
I'm also assuming its a lined jacket - so you're going to have to remove the lining - not fully, only the area that allows you to get to the dart from the inside. Carefully use a seam ripper and rip the dart open from somewhere around the waist (no need to go all the way down to the pocket - would be a pain to put back together), to the apex. Put the garment on inside out. You'll be working on the outer fabric only. The same changes will have to be done to the lining separately. You, or a helper, should pin the dart closed, not along the seam, but where it wants to lay on you to be flat and not bubbly. You will be taking in probably a quite a bit of fabric in certain areas, and in others it will meet up with the old seam line.
Your goal here is to get a somewhat smooth curved line. Do not stray from left to right of the dart. You need to take in evenly on both sides. Also, Any sharp changes in angle will show up in the finished garment as bumps. Try to blend into the apex & the waist area smoothly. Sew up the dart, press the seam well (over a ham if you have one... the sewing kind not the eating kind!!) Try it on and make sure its a good fit. Then clip the seam allowances on the dart - but not until you're happy with the fit! Then repeat the changes with the lining, close up the garment and you're done. :)
It is a minor alteration, and with a bit of confidence you can do it. Just be sure to double check your work before you cut anything.
