About Sarah Expertise Pattern making, fitting, fabric choices, garment construction, design choices - all aspects of making a garment! I'm a professional in the fashion industry. I'm responsible for fitting garments on live models, making garment construction choices that make sense for the fabrics, approving wash care instructions, patternmaking and draping on the form. I work with wovens and knits. My garments have won numerous awards (both design and construction) throughout my college career.
Experience Graduated BFA in fashion design; Currently work as a technical designer/pattern make/fitter for a large contemporary fashion company for 2+ years.
Organizations Philadelphia Sewing Collective - www.phillysewing.org
Education/Credentials BFA in Fashion Design from Moore College of Art & Design; Summa Cum Laude
Question I have this mans jacket that needs the sleeves hemmed about 3", it has a lining ,,, so how do I hem the cuffs without messing up the lining ? thanks
Answer Hi Fonda,
First, mark where you'd like the new sleeve length to fall. You're going to have to remove the lining from the sleeve opening in order to hem the cuffs. Use a seam ripper and dig inbetween the lining and the sleeve until you have a small opening. Once you have that opening, you'll be able to use the seam ripper to rip the rest of the stitches without damaging the fabric. If you tear the lining a bit at the seam, don't worry - you'll be cutting that off anyway!
Once you have both separated, press them flat and look for your marking. Add 1 1/2" to your marking on the sleeve itself, and cut at this point. Cut the same amount off of the lining fabric. Turn the sleeve up 1 1/2" and press with an iron. Turn the seam allowance of the sleeve to face the lining. Pressing is very helpful at this point, because you know you're getting an even sleeve hem. Don't skip the pressing! Turn the lining under (turning the seam allowance towards the sleeve) so that there is a 1" difference between the sleeve hem and the lining hem. Press a crease into the lining. Now, simply pin the lining to the sleeve with the 1" difference, and whipstitch the lining to the sleeve with a matching thread.
Sleeve alterations are one of the easist to do. Just remember to press evenly, and double check before you cut. You want a 1" difference between your sleeve hem and your lining hem, so the lining does not show when worn!
