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About Tom Adinolfi
Expertise
Can, and will, answer most questions pertaining to small engine repair, and service. But PLEASE furnish me with the proper Model numbers, and types to assure me to be able to answer your questions the most accurately as possible. If the problem is dealing with the frame, drive, or deck portion I need the manufactures numbers, if it is the engine itself, I need it's make and model numbers, rather than the frame's. Tom

Experience
Briggs & Stratton authorized dealer owned repair shop in Dayton, Ohio. 20+ years in small engine repair. and service. Experienced in most makes, and models. Factory schooled in Briggs & Stratton. Honda, MTD, Troybilt, Craftsman, Toro, Tecumseh, Kohler, and Kawasaki experienced. Keep in mind we do this for nothing more than ratings, please be thoughtful with them, and fair. We take great time to try, and help, please be as kind when rating us........Tom
 
   

You are here:  Experts > Home/Garden > Home Appliances > Small Engines (Lawn Mowers, etc.) > replacing connecting rod on Troy built chipper/vac with a Tecumseh engine

Topic: Small Engines (Lawn Mowers, etc.)



Expert: Tom Adinolfi
Date: 9/12/2008
Subject: replacing connecting rod on Troy built chipper/vac with a Tecumseh engine

Question
Hi Tom, I have a Troy built chipper/vac with a Tecumseh engine.  Serial number: H50 65582V (B) 3263D.  This died last fall when i was finishing up my leaves and im finally getting around to fixing it.. manage by crisis!  

When it died, there was no noise, just stopped running and lost compression.   I figured it was a rod and sure enough it was.   Its crazy, the darn thing is in 6 pieces, its like it disintegrated.  It was not low on oil either.. i add oil ever time i ran it.

upon inspection, nothing else looks damaged.  I purchased a new connecting rod, head gasket and cylinder cover gasket.

Note ive never been this deep into a motor repair before.  Ok, here are my questions:

1. what caused the break down to begin with, seems like something should have caused this failure
2. piston rings:  What a pain in the ...  I finally got the piston back into the cylinder but all of the ring gaps are in about the same position.   Should i remove the piston and reinstall staggering the gaps in the rings?   is there an easy (cheap) way to compress the rings for the re installation of the piston?
3. connecting rod installation:   I figured this should be as tight as i could get it.. but after i tightened the 2 bolts, the crank shaft would not turn.   That did not seem right to me that it would bind.  I backed off on the bolts and it turned freely.  now im worried.. how tight should i make these bolts.  I dont know what torque it should be and the only torque wrench i have is too big to use in that small of a space. and is there a problem with the shaft that this was binding...
4.  when reassembling, should i use any permatex on the gaskets?
5. any other advice you can offer?  I want to make sure im on the right track here.

oh.. fyi, i didnt not remove the fly wheel in this process.. lol. i tried but it would not budge, then i found i didnt have to to get to the piston etc.

Thanks for your thoughts.
Sincerely,
Rick


Answer
Something did cause this failure, metal fatigue. First off, why on earth would you even attempt this type repair with no knowledge what so ever, and not even preparing yourself by purchasing a manual? A major engine rebuild of this proportion can't be done just because you have wrenches on the garage wall. I can tell by your questions, and work done up to now, you haven't a clue of what your doing, and no manual to even guide you. Yes, your ring gaps must be separated. Yes you must use a torque wrench with the correct inch/pound of torque, on the connecting rod bearings, 170 inch/pounds. Gaskets require no gasket sealers. use a ring compressor to install the rings......My best advice, buy the manual!......Tom

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