AboutH Carl Trimble III Expertise One of a kind custom design stained glass as well as other glass art methods and the restoration of stained glass. Inquiries regarding leaded, beveled, etched sand carved, and fused glass techniques are invited. Other methods, technical questions,history of the art and supply source inquiries also welcome. Information on the pro's and con's of protective glazing of stained glass windows. Visit www.TrimbleStudios.com for more complete information.
Experience Over forty years experience in a wide range of techniques that include "stained glass", wood working and metal fabrication. Have worked from my own full service studio since 1977. Many major residential, commercial and religious installations from Charlottesville, Virginia and Atlanta, Georgia to San Diego California as well as much of the State of Texas
Organizations Professional Affiliate,Certified Trainer, and Preferred Provider for the American Institute of Architects, AIA, Dallas, Texas. I have served on the Board of Directors of both the Texas Fine Arts Association and the Texas Visual Arts Association
Education/Credentials Bachelor of Fine Arts, The University of Texas, Tyler. Master of Fine Arts, The University of North Texas, Denton. Just a few hours short of a Bachelor of Business Administration degree from the University of Texas at Austin.
Awards and Honors Many first place and best of show awards in both stained glass and fine arts competitions. Steady commission work for the past ten years has obviated any recent competitive activity.
Past/Present Clients Most recent major commissions are for American Airlines CR Smith Museum; JFK Airport Terminal 8 stained glass; TXU Energy Plaza Thor stained glass. The Mansion at Turtle Creek, Dallas and and St. John the Apostle Catholic Church in Terrell, Texas
I am making a sidelight using the lead method. I just finished constructing,
and soldering the whole piece when I noticed a chip in the corner of 4x4
bevel right in the middle of the sidelight! What do I do?? I have not begun
the cementing process yet. Also, is there a way to keep the lead more silver
looking instead of the darkerlook you get after the cementing process? Any
help would be greatly appreciated!!
Answer Gigi,
First of all I want to compliment you on your solder joints. They are very well done and you should be proud of your workmanship.
The only real solution is to disassemble the piece up to the point where the bevelled piece can be removed and replaced with a new piece of glass. This can be a chore, but, if carefully done, you won't be able to tell there has been a repair.
I use a hacksaw and, beginning from the nearest outside pieces of glass, carefully remove all the glass up to the damaged piece; setting aside the undamaged glass and the lead you have removed as well. Once you have replaced the damaged piece, carefully reassemble the glass you have removed and solder the severed joints anew. You are fortunate to have caught the damage before you puttied the panel.
As to the graying of the lead. This is a natural process of oxidation which is important for the life of the lead itself. The lead reacts with the atmosphere and the patina will protect the lead from further decay. There are chemicals you can apply which will cause it to become very black and, in some cases, give a copper patina. Don't make the mistake as so many do in thinking the bright silver color is desirable. Even copper foil work which has the bright silver appearance will eventually turn gray or some other off color.
Accept the fact that the lead is going to turn dark with the puttying. It is a desirable characteristic of the leaded glass process.
Good Luck with your repair.
Carl Trimble
Trimble Studios
www.trimblestudios.com
carl@trimblestudios.com
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