AboutDavid Gomm Expertise Copper Foil stained glass panels are our specialty. Both architectural and residential questions can be asked.
We build windows and teach classes in our studio. We design custom patterns by hand and then draw tham using AutoCAD. We recently donated over 100 square feet of glass to the Covey Center For The Arts in Provo, Utah.
I write a monthly newsletter that gives tips and tricks for the stained glass trade at www.betterstainedglass.com We also teach classes because the joy of new stained glass students rubs off on us and keeps the hobby fun.
Experience Started business in stained glass in 1983. We build and design architectural and residential stained glass and we write a monthly stained glass newsletter at www.betterstainedglass.com
Publications Go Articles,
Ideamarketers, and
Ezine Articles. We also contribute to newspapers and ezines. Also have several videos on You Tube
Education/Credentials Bachelor of Arts in Education, Missouri Southern State University. Taught college course at MSSU, currently teach classes in our studio. Write monthly newsletter.
Question We have been working on connecting two old windows from a church. They
are going to be used in a custom hutch. The problem we're having is that the
solder won't adhere to the old zinc came that was used to frame the old
window panels. We have tried to remove the oxidation with steel wool and a
wire brush before we paint on the flux but the solder still just rolls off. Is
there something we need to do to prepare the old zinc came before we
solder? Thanks for your help.
Answer The three things needed are getting the metal clean, heating it up hot enough and using a strong flux.
So, even though you think you're doing a good job cleaning the metal, you probably need to do more. If the metal looks bright and shiny, that's an indicator that it's clean. Look for Muratic acid at the hardware store or home center. Follow all safety directions. Use some on the metal while you clean it.
Depending on how thick the metal is, you may need to get it up to temp. If the base metal isn't warm except on a very thin part of the top layer, the solder rolls right off.
Then look at your flux. Use the strongest one in your arsenal. Example, in our studio we use Novacan which is very light acid and wouldn't work well. There's a Canfield flux that's pretty caustic that works well, others might also work well.
