AboutKat Dawes Expertise I'M SORRY I DON'T DO WINDSURFING!
I am the sub-editor and editorial assistant for Carve and SurfGirl magazines, based in the UK. I can answer questions about all aspects of surfing: equipment, travel, history, culture, locations in the UK, the pro tour, training for surfing, technique, women`s surfing, forecasting, surf media and so on.
Experience I am the sub-editor and editorial assistant for Carve and SurfGirl surfing magazines, based in
the UK. I have been surfing for 12 years in Wales and Cornwall. I have also travelled to
Australia and various European locations to surf.
Publications Carve and SurfGirl magazines
Education/Credentials 15 A grades, BA and MA in English Literature.
Expert: Kat Dawes Date: 5/20/2006 Subject: Surfing
Question Hi, i'm just starting out with surfing as a new hobby and am looking to buy my first board. Whilst looking, i have realised two things i do not know and would like them cleared up. What is the difference between a longboard, a shortboard and whatevers in between? Also, what size board is best for beginners? P.S. i'm 6 ft if that helps
Answer Hi, sorry not to answer sooner, I've been on holiday.
I've pasted below something I'm working on for SurfGirl mag; it's not been published yet so i'd be grateful if you don't spread it around, just keep it for your own use! I hope it helps.
Surfboards are measured in feet and inches. A board will often have its measurements written along the stringer on the bottom. The first measurement given when talking about boards is the length - simply enough, from tip to tail. Then comes the widest point, then the thickness. (You might also see nose and tail widths, taken 12 inches from the ends. Not really important unless you're a pro or shaper!) The plan shape of the board is what it looks like from above. Most all-round boards will be narrowest at the nose, widest behind the middle and taper to the tail.
Volume is determined by all these measurements - the volume of your board is very important, especially if you're learning. This is where your own height, weight and the waves you surf come into play. More volume floats you and makes it easier to paddle and catch waves. Too much and you can't duckdive and the board will be less manoeuvrable.
Soft boards - these are the blue or yellow boards most surf schools use. They're stable and won't knock you out if they hit you on the head. They cost about £150.
Pop-outs or moulded boards (like the popular NSP boards) are made by filling a fibreglass mould with polyurethane foam. They're heavier but last longer - ideal once you're past soft boards. You can pick one up secondhand for about £100 if you're lucky.
Epoxy boards produced by companies like SurfTech and Salomon are gaining popularity. The foam is often machine-shaped and encased in an epoxy shell. Epoxy boards are lighter, tougher and more environmentally friendly. They tend to surf better in small waves than their polyester resin cousins.
The most popular type by far, custom boards are made by hand from foam blanks (which these days are often roughly shaped by a machine first). A shaper then finishes the shape, then it's covered with fibreglass cloth and polyester resin. These boards are more easily damaged, but lighter and more fine-tuned. Suitable for all abilities, you can pick them up from about £100 secondhand, but you'll need to know what you're on about (or take an experienced mate) to avoid picking something up with faults like badly fixed dings. A new one will set you back a couple of hundred at least. Buy a bag for it to reduce dings and sun damage.
Your first board should be a foamy, whether you hire it on the beach, buy one or use the surf school's. They are ideal to learn on.
Next, you should buy, beg, steal or borrow something nice and floaty like a minimal. Keep the volume and length up and you'll progress. (If you've decided you want to be a cruisy longboarder, you're set, as they have plenty of both.) Get a board at least 12 inches longer than you are tall, but for most girls anything over 7'4" is going to be too cumbersome. Chops Lascelles of Beach Beat Surfboards says, "One of the main points is trying to keep the overall size as small as possible relative to the surfer so they dont have to waste any excess energy battling the board and can concentrate on surfing and catching waves." But DON'T make your next board a skinny little shortboard. Do you want to surf or look cool? Nicole Morgan, 2005 BPSA champion, says, "Don't just buy the first one you see that you think looks good. Also, it's important to surf something that is within your abilities. So many times I have seen people on boards that are too small for them, and it just ends up in frustration…all the fun is gone! Work your way down from large to smaller boards as you improve, that's what worked for me."
Minimals are an excellent way to progress onto green faces once you can stand. Bill Attlee of Escape Surfboards suggests, "A 7'2" or 7'4" minimal - these are narrow and light, big enough to catch waves on and be a reasonably stable platform on which to progress your surfing techniques." Minimals are harder to come by secondhand, so if you buy a new one and want to progress to a shorter board in a year or two, you should get a decent amount of money back for it. Once the minimal starts to hold you back (it's not fast enough, you can't duckdive it out to the bigger waves you want to be on, or it turns too slowly for you) it might be time to start thinking about a shorter board.
Still, think volume and length. You need it to paddle into and be stable on waves. Take an experienced friend who knows your surfing level, and be prepared to be very honest with the salespeople or shaper. Get as much advice as you can from any surfing mates or your instructors. Don't be afraid to ask a ton of questions - good salespeople want to sell you a board you love so you'll come back for your next one. Go for something with clean simple lines, no fussy channels or wings.
Try to buy from a reputable brand - the market is being flooded with boards made cheaply in the Far East, but sometimes they aren't quite up to the same standard or made with the same care as the local shaper, who also has the advantage of knowing local conditions intimately. You'll get a better resale value from something with a good brand name or from a reputable local shaper. Chops says, "The benefits of a local board is you can develop your design over a period of time as you build up a relationship with your shaper. At Beach Beat we keep a file for every custom board we make and that enables us to be able to fine tune your favourite design."
The shape of the board you choose is up to you. Check out the shapes below and learn to recognise what other people are riding. If you get a chance to try out a mate's board, always say yes as it's a chance to find out what works and doesn't for your riding.
We asked surf instructor Tracey Boxall for some tips on finding the right board: "When you start surfing they say you should have a board about two feet taller than yourself, but this is not always true. If you have a lesson or two and are struggling to stand on eight or nine foot Swell boards, than you will need a hard board with similar length. A lot of shops tell women to buy smaller boards as they are easier to carry: don't do it, girls. If your instructor has said a size, stick to it. Otherwise you'll struggle for some time and may even give up. If you're already surfing and want smaller boards, again ask coaches for advice; if you go too small too soon you will get habits which will hamper your progression."
