AboutDavid Scott Expertise Questions regarding the advisability of different kinds of modifications to Samurai/Sidekick/Tracker or various kinds of off-road usage. I will not attempt to do more than provide links for questions about other Suzukis such as Vitara, Grand Vitara, etc. I may or may not give generalized advice for newer models, but have no experience regarding newer models, and will not attempt to give more than the most generalized answers for questions regarding vehicles later than '93 manufacture. I will however, if possible, provide a link that will help you contact a professional in your region.
Experience I've been a professional mechanic for over thirty five years, live in the center of the Rocky Mountains, and have been active in exploring the old mining/4wd roads for decades. I've specific experience with Samurai modification, because that's my personal vehicle.
Education/Credentials Thirty five years of advanced, intensive classes for experienced professionals only. Manufacturer seminars and training classes averaging four to six weeks per year. I'm now a professional heavy duty fleet mechanic, and no longer deal with issues such as MIL (check engine) lights
Expert: David Scott Date: 8/3/2008 Subject: 95 Suzuki Sidekick JX
Question QUESTION: Vehicle was running. I changed plugs, wires, rotor and cap. After that it ran like it was missing and would not idle unless I pulled a vacuum hose loose on the intake. Then it would barely idle maybe 200 to 300 rpm. I figured I had gotten some bad parts so I pulled all new parts and reinstalled the old ones. Same problem. Purchased a second set of tune up parts ( all parts factory recommended originals) and installed everything 1 part at a time trying to eliminate my problem. No luck. Yesterday I adjusted the idle set screw on the intake manifold, got it to idle at 7 - 800 rpm but still now power. Runs smoother. I changed the fuel filter, also. When I say now power I mean I can not get up to 30 mph. This is a 16 valve 1.6L Manual Trans. 4X4 The vehicle would run at highway speeds with no problem before. Also I systematically step by step set the timing to factory specs. Any ideas. Thanks in advance this thing is driving me to drinking. Jim
ANSWER: The only thing I can think of is that perhaps the plug wires are not installed in the correct firing order. I once got the wires plugged onto the dist cap out of correct order, and drove myself to distraction until I put the engine on #1 compression and re installed them noting the direction the rotor moved when cranking the engine. I don't have ANY repair info, but believe that the firing order is 1-3-4-2. Can't think of anything else. I haven't worked on a 16 valve since sometime in the late 90's, and then have only seen one.
scotty
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QUESTION: Already did that. I even went so far as to set the timing manual on 5 degrees below TDC and then set the distributor to the rotor and cap then verified the firing order which is 1342 (you are correct). Having done all the above and to no avail. The problem appears to be fuel and air mixture. Is it possible that the O2 sensor could cause this?
Answer The oxy sensor could be involved. Just leave it unplugged. It will go to a neutral state, and should run ok if that's the problem. When warmed up, and plugged in, a good sensor should be generating a voltage signal that fluctuates fairly rapidly (up to 8 cycles a second at cruising rpm) from .4 to .8 volts. Obviously it's easiest to observe on an oscilloscope, but a digital or analog voltmeter will still permit you to determine that the signal is fluctuating. If it's extremely slow (every two seconds) or stuck unless you rev the motor, a sensor is probable. Sensors usually last about 100k, some for as much as 500k, and others die at 60 k. No good reason for the variance that anyone has ever postulated.
scotty
