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Tractor Repair/ford 3000


Smack wrote at 2007-10-21 11:55:21
My Ford 3000 hydraulic pump is on the port side, rear, of the engine, not in the transmission area (I think that is the location for the 4000 series hydraulic pump).

I also recently purchased this 3000 and its hydraulics are not working.  Yes, get the manual, check the oil level first.  I am also suspicious of the filter.  I installed a gage on the pump and it is pegged at 0 PSI.

Billy wrote at 2008-11-25 03:23:11
First I would check the hydraulic oil often on this model of tractor it is confused with the transmission oil however the hyd and transmission oil are seperate. The hyd oil reservoir is the rear end housing of the tractor and has a pipe threaded level plug located on the right hand side about mid-way up the rear end housing in front of the axle housing the fill plug is in the top of the housing and can be seen if you are standing behind the tractor and looking down behind the seat. Contrary to what Martin has said the main hyd pump is not located in the rear end it is engine mounted on a 3000 ford tractor. the pump is driven by a gear on the back end of the cam shaftand is located on the left rear side of the engine. A few of the things I would check if I were working on this tractor would start with checking the suction tube to the pump it is supposed to have a clamp at the back of the engine on top of the transmission if this clamp is missing it will allow it to come loose and not supply oil to the pump. If it is connected (or disconnected) locate the plug on the back end of the hyd pump and screw it out (stand clear if pump is working oil will come out) start the tractor and allow oil to pump from the hole after oil comes out stop the engine and replace the plug and see if three point will work. If it still does not operate or the pump does not begin to pump any oil it could be one of two things then either the gear on the rear of the camshaft is not turning or the suction screen that is located in the rear end housing is stopped up with trash. In order to check the gear on the rear of the cam remove the pump try turning the gear by hand (do not start the engine with pump removed as there is an oil gallery that supplies lube oil to the pump drive gear shaft and things will get messy) now to check the suction screen the lift top will have to be removed and the hyd oil drained this is a metal screen and can be washed with solvent or blown out with compressed air. note there are two sreens underneath the lift top the one in question will be located closer to the bottom of the sump and is secured by one of the bolts that holds the pinion shaft cap on. now while you have the lift top removed lay it on a table upside down and move the raise/lower lever while holding the lift arms in the fully lower position there is a turnbuckle that connects the linkage to the control valve the valve should move in and out when the lever is moved if not check for binding if it appears that it is out of adjustment you might want to take it to a dealer that has the special tools to make the correct adjustments or if you have a repair manual and are pretty good at precise adjustments then you might do it yourself. One more possible cause for this problem could be the shuttle valve that is located above the control valve (below when viewed upside down) tjis is called the unload valve its function is to shuttle one direction when hitch is raising in order to close off the port that allows oil to be returned to sump and allow the lift to raise now when you lower the lift oil inside the cylinder moves the valve the other direction opening the port so the oil can drain from the cylinder thus allowing the lift to lower. this little unload valve will sometimes stick and hinder operation just take a punch and see if it will move (provided it isnt already pushed as far back as it will travel) this valve has to slide fairly easily as it is not spring loaded. If it shows signs of sticking or if you just want to be sure remove the three bolts that holds the cap over the rear end of the valves there is a round metal plug in the end of the housing that has a threaded hole in the center of it this threaded hole is there so you can screw a slide hammer in and remove the plug if a slide hammer is not available just take a punch and drive the valve and the plug out being very careful not to damage the valve or the bore in any way I might suggest using a brass drift for this or just be careful the valve itself is pretty hard and not very easily damaged I have removed several of them with a punch and hammer without damaging them but anything is possible. Ok after you get the valve out there may be an O-ring in the groove on the larger end of the valve if so remove the O-ring and throw it away do not replace it this little o-ring is likely the cause of the valve sticking and the valve works fine without it it is not necessary check for any scoring or burrs on the valve itself and in the bore use fine emory cloth to smooth out any bad spots and wash parts in solvent to get the grit off afterwards and see if the valve slides smoothly in the bore without binding. Now if everything looks good put the tractor back together when you get ready to start it remember the hyd system now has air in it and will have to be bled out before it will operate properly remember the plug in the rear of the hyd pump that we removed earlier just repeat that little process and operate the three point lift now at first the lift will operate slowly and it will probably pretty jerky when raising this should smooth out as you raise and lower the hitch several times. If it does not this could be an indication of a problem with the hyd pump these pumps are piston type and have little steel balls inside them that move off of their seats when the piston is in the suction stroke and seat when piston is in pumping stroke if one of these balls doesnt seat it will thus act as an engine does when it is not firing on all cylinder or what is often referred to as missing. This can also be another cause for no three point lift operation. If bleeding the air from the system (the first time I mentioned it) got the lift working and suction tube was in place and no other person has had the hyd system open for any reason the air could be entering the system via an improperly seating check ball. (I would first allow the tractor to sit overnight or maybe a few days and then recheck operation before rebuilding the pump just to make sure of the cause.) Now as for the steering first check the oil it uses the same kind of oil as the hyd system and the reservoir is located on the right hand side of the tractor on the front of the engine just fill it until it gets full there is not any certain level the oil has to be filled to just make sure it is full. If it has oil and still no power steering then you would need to run a pressure test on the pump to see if it is operating properly. first remove the pressure line (the one that hooks to the bottom near the front end of the pump and the other end hooks to the left hand side of the steering gearbox) you will need to have a hyd hose made to allow you to tee a pressure gauge in that is capable of measuring at least 2000 psi now hook the line that you had made with the gauge installed to the proper ports as mentioned and start the tractor (fill the pump back up with oil) and try to steer the tractor you should see a small increase in pressure as soon as the engine is started but when you turn the wheel you should see the pressure rise more. The pressure setting should be around 650 psi. Less pressure will cause hard steering though it should still work some. Try turning the wheel both directions when testing as the control valve may have some effect on pressure reading. If you do not have pressure at all first make sure the pump is turning. The pump is driven by the timing gears on the front of the engine. The pump drive gear is has a key slot and a woodruff key is located in the tapered shaft sticking out the front of the pump. if the key is sheared off the gear will spin freely on the shaft and you will lose your powersteering. If you do in fact have pressure but maybe not enough it could be due to a worn out pump. I myself would tear the pump down before replacing it as there are seals inside the pump that can rupture and leak causing loss of pressure. When you tear this pump down be careful with the gears and bushing blocks these should be reassembled exactly as they were taken out otherwise the pump might not work again. Take a look at the bushings if they spin inside the blocks this is an indication of excessive wear and the pump will have to be replaced as the only servicable parts in the pump are the seals. Also check the gear shafts they were originally all the same size so if one of them is worn excessively you should be able to tell just by looking at them. If pump looks to be serviceable seal kits are available from any new holland dealer. If you have good pressure the steering should work however if if you still do not have pressure and the pump is ok the next thing to check is the steering control valve in the gearbox. It is the piece that the steering lines hook to (the ones from the pump and the lines that are also commected to the cylinders on each side of the tractor) this valve is responsible for sending pressurized oil to the cylinders. My suggestoin here would be to get a service manual and follow it as the procedure for this repair is long. however if you do go into this part make sure the control valve sleeve slides smoothly in its bore but fits snugly. also check the centering  pins these also have to slide smoothly. There is one of these pins that is aclually a check valve and has two steel balls between them they must be there for steering to work. Be sure not to let the valve fall apart when removing it! Also make sure that the shaft that the steering wheel goes on is moving up and down when it is turned this movement is what makes the control work to send the pressurized fluid to the cylinders. also make sure to hook the cylinder lines up properly hooking them up wrong will cause the steering to fight itself and not work. Ihope this helps you out and I wish you luck.

Aaron wrote at 2013-10-02 01:10:33
Billy , Thanks For  sharing your know -how on these old tractors. Im working on my 75' 3000 right now with the no-lift symptoms, and your insights are very helpful. Trying to keep my old blue friend alive!


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Repair and replacement of parts for vintage tractors upto 1970? How and where to start. Why do it at all. This is for the hobby enthusiast working from home etc.


My Interest started in 1950 started collecting vintage tractors in 1990. Have rebuilt 5 along with other farm equipment. Travel to country / steam shows in the south of UK with my family and the tractors.


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Now retired i have spent most of my life as an engineering draftsman. Working for small firms and ship yards.

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