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About Jim Hyland
Expertise
I am an expert in Forestry, Forest Entomology, Forest Pest Control, and Forest Health. Extensive knowledge in Identification of insects and diseases of trees. Expert on Bark beetles and other insects that attack forests. Also a Registrated Forester with extensive knowledge in the management and care of forests.

Experience
34 years as State Pest Management Chief in a Southern state. Extensive knowledge in Forestry.

BS with major in Forest Management and Entomology
Registered Forester
Certified Pesticide Appicator
 
   

You are here:  Experts > Homework Help > Trees > Trees > Crimson King Maple Tree

Trees - Crimson King Maple Tree


Expert: Jim Hyland - 8/12/2008

Question
QUESTION: I have a Crimson King Maple tree aprox. 7 years old.  This year I noticed some of the leaves are being eaten by something which causes them to look lacey.  Small holes that eventually comsume the leaf. About 10% to 20% of the leaves. Also, I noticed some dark brown/black spots on the trunk of the tree near the base climbing to about 2 feet up.   There is a split in the tree around these spots.  Not an open split, but something that has grown with the tree for a few years.  Possibly starting out as a small cut.  So I guess I have 2 concerns, the holes in the leaves and the spots.  Should I be concerned and is there anything I can/should do?
Thank you very much,
Robin
IMAGE: Brown Spots on Tree

ANSWER: The holes in the leaves I would not be concerned about. Form time to time insects will feed on the leaves and as long as there is not complete defoliation for a couple of years in a row there is very little damage to the tree. Hardwood have the capability to leaf out after they have been defoliated but if this happens a couple of times in a row the growth of the tree will suffer by some dieback or smaller leaves. You are a long ways from this with a few holes eaten.

The dark spot on the trunk look like borer damage and are a concern. I  would spray the area on the trunk with an insecticide called Merit or Onyx. These will kill the insect in the bark and prevent others from attacking. Check with your local nursery for these insecticides.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Someone had told me it could be Vinegar Slime Flux?? And to remove the dirt from around the base of the tree down to the roots and not to water or fertilize for a while. I have not had anyone out to personally look at the tree, just pictures.
If I use the Merit or Onyx, and if the problem is what you say, will the dark spots go away and more not form?
I appreciate your replies and expertise!
Thank you, Robin

Answer
If it is slim flux it is not active. Slime flux will have a smell of vinegar or a strong smell and be wet and running down the trunk. When it dries it could look similar to the picture but usually not distinct spots. The dark spots are damage and will not go away for a while. The tree will need to grow over these and this may take several years. But the insecticide will kill any borers and more damage will not occur. Here is information on slime flux but I still lean toward the borer damage. .

The oozing is called "slime flux" and is caused by a bacterial infection inside the trunk. There are actually two types of slime flux: “alcoholic” and “acidic”. The acidic flux smells like vinegar.

The infection can be in a wound on the trunk surface or it can be deeper inside the trunk. In either case, bacteria ferment the tree's sap; it seeps out and down to the ground. Sweet-eating insects (wasps, bees, yellow jackets) would obviously be attracted to the damaged area.

There is no treatment for the condition. The best thing to do is to wash off the trunk to discourage bugs. Mix a pint of chlorine bleach in a gallon of water to make a final rinse. The flow of sap is periodic; it may disappear and not reoccur or you may see it every year.

Slime flux is a bacterial disease. The infected wood is frequently discolored or appears water soaked (wet wood). Gas (carbon dioxide) is produced by fermentation by bacteria. The gas produces pressure in the wood. This pressure forces sap from the trunk through cracks in branch crotch unions, pruning wounds, lawn mower wounds, other injuries and occasionally unwounded bark. This oozing of sap is termed fluxing. The flux is colorless to tan at first but darkens up exposure to the air. As fluxing continues, large areas of the bark become soaked. Many different microorganisms grow in the flux producing a foul or alcoholic smell. Various types of insects are attracted to the slime flux. If the fluxing continues for months, leaves on affected branches may be stunted and chlorotic. Grass may be killed where the flux runs down the trunk onto the grass.

Large mature landscape oaks have had problems with slime flux on the trunk or large exposed flare roots just above the soil line with no apparent wounds or injuries. Sap may continue to ooze for several weeks or months, but usually it eventually stops with no treatment and no apparent damage to the tree. This slime flux may be triggered by heat, drought and other stress.

There is no curative or preventive measures for slime flux except to maintain trees in a general good state of vigor and minimize wounds and injuries. More damage can be done to the tree in attempting to cure slime flux than the flux will do alone. It has been a common practice with slime flux on American elms to drill a hole in the trunk and insert a pipe, which does not cure the problem. Inserting a pipe only allows the sap to drip on the ground and not run down the trunk and insert a pipe, which does not cure the problem. Inserting a pipe only allows the sap to drip on the ground and not run down the trunk.

Installing a drain pipe is not recommended in most cases because it does little good; moreover, slime flux on oaks occurs too close to the ground. If there is loose or dead bark in the slime flux area, remove all of the loose bark and allow the area to dry. The best thing to do is to wash off the trunk to discourage bugs. Mix a pint of chlorine bleach in a gallon of water to make a final rinse. The flow of sap is periodic; it may disappear and not reoccur or you may see it every year.
Do not apply a wound dressing.  
I would fertilze the tree with 10-10-10 fertilizer at the rate of 1 lb per inch of diameter scattered around the tree and watered in good. This will help improve the overall health of the tree.  

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