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About Howard M. Fitzcharles III
Expertise
Triumph TR-4 up & Spitfire, and Engine theory

Experience
Dealership line mechanic on MG, Triumph, Jaguar for 15 years, Instructor in commercial mechanics school 2 yr. Product information manager for piston and valve manufacture, Instructor & hotline answer man for import car parts importer 15 yrs.

Organizations
Associate member SAE EAA member

Publications
Import Car magazine

Education/Credentials
ASE Master Auto with L-1 certification up to 2000

 
   

You are here:  Experts > Home/Garden > Auto Repair > Triumph Repair > Clutch pedal won't depress

Topic: Triumph Repair



Expert: Howard M. Fitzcharles III
Date: 6/15/2008
Subject: Clutch pedal won't depress

Question
QUESTION: I was driving on the highway near my home when I downshifted and heard and felt a "pop". Now the clutch pedal will not depress at all. I figure one of the mechanical linkages between the slave/pushrod and the lever arm pin has failed. I just wanted an expert's opinion before I pull the gearbox again.

ANSWER: Hi Tom,
Before removing the trans, you should remove the pinch bolt holding the slave cylinder in and pull it out to see if anything is wrong there first. If you can't find anything wrong there you do have to pull the gearbox since everything else is inside.
Howard

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Transmission out. As I figured, the lever-arm pin was gone. The pin they sell is a too-narrow pin and a sleeve. Is this a good method of holding that in place, or should I run some kind of bolt or pin through the pivot hole? Another thing: I had a bad leak at both the front and rear seals after I put the gearbox oil in the last time I pulled the transmission. I refilled it with the front of the car jacked up, likely causing an overfill. The leak was terrible the first day I drove it, but there was almost no more after that first time. Would an overfill cause a temporary leak at both ends?

ANSWER: Tom, you will have to refresh my memory as to what kind of Triumph this is and I am familiar with the tapered bolt that holds the fork to the shaft but I don't know what you are referring to as "pin & Sleeve". Who did you purchase it from and do you have the part numbers?
As far as oil leaks if you over fill the trans, you could experience more leaks than normal. However you also need to check the vent in the top of the trans to see that it is not stopped up thus causing pressure when the trans warms up.

Let me know,
Howard

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: It's a 1980 Spitfire 1500. The pin and sleeve is Victoria British part #2-2540 & #2-2541. When I replaced the clutch, and I removed the old pin, the sleeve was mangled and when I removed the sleeve, the pin simply fell out. I honestly thought this was something the previous owner had fabricated, but it is the system they use. Also, I did clear the vent on the gear box.

Answer
With the box out you should be able to see what is binding and not allowing the arm to move. Your pin and sleeve are at one end and mounted into bell housing. The crushable sleeve is what secures the pin. The large arm must have two short pins that engage the release bearing mounting hub that slides on a large sleeve that is mounted in the bell housing. Then at the outer end is another pin to secure the slave cylinder push rod. The release bearing mounting hub must slide freely and be lubed before installation.

You should be able to operate the arm freely with the trans out to see what is binding up.

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