More Vintage Cars Answers
Question Library
Ask a question about Vintage Cars
Volunteer
Experts of the Month
Expert Login
Awards
About Us
Tell friends
Link to Us
Disclaimer
|
| |
|
|
| |
| | | |
About Jo Jesty
Expertise Most detailed about Austin Healeys but also MGs (A,B,C), old Minis, old Volvos: they share SU carbs, Lucas (Prince of Darkness!) ignition, Girling brakes & shocks. Some things shared with TRs too, but I don't know so much about them. Can advise the semi-neophyte on the basics of keeping things running, especially tuning ignition and carbs: but no rebuilding engines or transmissions; no frame or bodywork.
Experience Middling: I am not an auto mechanic. (Should we stop right here?)
Grew up In England and a workshop. I have had a 3-carb 60/61 Healey for ca. 8 years, largely looked after myself. New fuel system and carbs and resuscitated ignition recently. Brakes always fine. Great driver's car. Major jobs done by others: king pins, front frame cancer excision; caliper rebuild; etc. Organizations.: Austin Healey Sports & Touring Car Club (PA)
Publications: irrelevant
Education/CredentialsPhD: irrelevant to this
Awards and Honors: irrelevant
Languages: I could try French...
| | |
| |
You are here: Experts > Shopping > Vintage Cars > Vintage Cars > 1973 MG
Expert: Jo Jesty
Date: 8/30/2008
Subject: 1973 MG
Question Parked the MG and she was running great. I have had medical problems that kept me from driving her for a year. Started the MG after sitting a year with a jump start, motor turned over great. Clutch would not engage. What have I done to the old girl. Love her greatly, want her back, Please help!
Answer I would guess that either (1) you've had a leak in the clutch hydraulics and you're out of fluid, or (2) if not actually a leak, a rubber seal in the clutch master cylinder has gone bad. I would rebuild the master cylinder (only some seals to change, and quite easy), and of course flush/bleed the system.
If possible, when doing the job (I don't remember the ease of this in the 70s MGB), dismount the cylinder and inspect the inside bore by eye and fingernail. If not completely smooth (e.g. a ring of corrosion), replace the complete cylinder.
I would rate the likelihood of problems in the slave cylinder (rear of the engine block, beside the clutch housing) a bit lower, but that is a possibility. Easily determined by bleeding the system and pumping the clutch: a leak will be fairly obvious--a puddle.
While contemplating clutch hydraulics, you should also at a minimum flush out the brake hydraulics with new fluid: they're a bit more important!
Add to this Answer
Ask a Question
|
|