AboutRon Wolff Expertise I am proficient in the following areas of VW Air Cooled Models from 1968-1979:
Vehicles: Super Beetle, Beetle, Thing, Karmann Ghia, Bus, Westfalia/Bus
Areas of expertise years 1968-1979
Engine Rebuild advice for all air cooled engines
VW Brake system replacement
Automatic Stickshift transmission
VW KOOL and DPD air conditioning systems (ex. thing)
Westfalia Electrical system dual battery
Westy Refridge Repair
Westy Cabinet Repair
Westy
AFC Fuel Injection system (1975 bugs) (1975 bus/Westys)
Soundproofing
General type 4 engine rebuild/technical data (i.e. 1.7 ltr, 1.8., 2.0) for buses
VW Air Cooled Beetle and Bus Paint codes
VW Distributor Compatibility Information
Westy component repair
Emission Systems
Exhaust Systems
General Electric System
Door rebuild (windows, seals, vent windows)
Body Panel Removal and general repair (non-welded)
Charging System
Convertible top Installation: Beetle
CV joints
Engine Troubleshooting
Valve Train
Non areas of expertise:
High Performance Modifications
Front end related components
Rear suspension (spring plate adjustment)
Bodywork / painting
Experience
Past/Present clients I often contribute to the westfalia users group technical boards. I have been a member for about 4 years. My usermame is 76Heatwagen
I restore vintage Volkswagens and currently own 4 of them.
Expert: Ron Wolff Date: 6/16/2007 Subject: 1969 Beetle Wont Start
Question Hello Ron, I can't seem to get my car to start. I have replaced the ignition coil, distributor cap, rotor, points and the condenser. I turn it over and over and It gives me nothing. From time to time it seems like it wants to start but just shoots out a backfire instead. I went to the back of the car to see if I could smell gas after pressing it a couple of times just to make sure the fuels flowing, and I can smell it. And when I try to push start it seems like it wants to cut on but dies out almost immediately. I'm not sure what to replace next. The distributor...carburetor..or fuel pump? I really appreciate it. Thanks
Answer Hi Clint,
It seems like you may have something hooked up incorrectly.
1) Make sure that the engine is set to TDC (Top Dead Center). The best way to do this is to remove the #1 Spark Plug and with the ignition unplugged (to avoid injury) turn over the engine with a socket wrench. Put your finger over the spark plug hole of #1. You will feel air rush out at some point.
2) CAREFULLY place a small screwdriver in the #1 spark plug hole and it should only go in a little, signifying that the piston is up. Now align the notch in the bottom pulley to the 12:00 position.
3) Adjust #1 valves to .006"
4) Now, loosen the distributor and adjust it so that the rotor is pointing exactly at the notch scribed on the side of the distributor lip, where the cap sits. This is #1 firing position.
5) When you put the cap on, look what post under the top of the cap the rotor is making contact with. It should be the post that has the iginition wire that leads right to #1 cylinder spark plug. If that is ok, put the plug back in and connect the wire back to #1 spark plug.
6) Move the engine so the rotor moves Counter-clockwise, and the notch on the crank pulley is now on the bottom (or the 6:00 position). Adjust the #2 valves.
7) Again, look at the cap, the rotor should be pointing to the terminal on the cap for the ignition wire that leads to #2 cylinder.
8) Repeat this process, turning the rotor again counter-clockwise and bringing the notch on the bottom pulley back to the 12:00 position. This is now #3, confirm the ignition wire, adjust the valves.
9) Finally, do number 4, the pulley should be at 6:00 again.
So, to recap...when the rotor is turned counter-clockwise, it should contact the spark plug wires in the following order: 1 - 2 - 3 - 4.
When it turns clockwise (as in when you are ready to start it, the rotor will contact the cylinder wires: 1-4-3-2.
Sounds like you just have the wires mixed up, that's how to fix them, and it is always a great idea to adjust the valves while you are at it.
Once it's running, time the engine with a timing gun, or statically to the specs of your distributor.
You should be off and running!
(P.S. make sure your points are gapped correctly as well)
