AboutRon Wolff Expertise I am proficient in the following areas of VW Air Cooled Models from 1968-1979:
Vehicles: Super Beetle, Beetle, Thing, Karmann Ghia, Bus, Westfalia/Bus
Areas of expertise years 1968-1979
Engine Rebuild advice for all air cooled engines
VW Brake system replacement
Automatic Stickshift transmission
VW KOOL and DPD air conditioning systems (ex. thing)
Westfalia Electrical system dual battery
Westy Refridge Repair
Westy Cabinet Repair
Westy
AFC Fuel Injection system (1975 bugs) (1975 bus/Westys)
Soundproofing
General type 4 engine rebuild/technical data (i.e. 1.7 ltr, 1.8., 2.0) for buses
VW Air Cooled Beetle and Bus Paint codes
VW Distributor Compatibility Information
Westy component repair
Emission Systems
Exhaust Systems
General Electric System
Door rebuild (windows, seals, vent windows)
Body Panel Removal and general repair (non-welded)
Charging System
Convertible top Installation: Beetle
CV joints
Engine Troubleshooting
Valve Train
Non areas of expertise:
High Performance Modifications
Front end related components
Rear suspension (spring plate adjustment)
Bodywork / painting
Experience
Past/Present clients I often contribute to the westfalia users group technical boards. I have been a member for about 4 years. My usermame is 76Heatwagen
I restore vintage Volkswagens and currently own 4 of them.
Expert: Ron Wolff Date: 3/20/2007 Subject: VW runs rough
Question I have a VW 1600 Buggy that just started having problems at start up with cylinders 3 and 4 running rough, loud and hot. The engine has dual carbs. The problem started recently when firing it up a couple of times, then went away at next start up and ran smooth. Now it starts up and runs rough on 3 and 4 all the time. Carb problem feeding 3 and 4? Any suggestions greatly appreciated.
Answer Hi Gary,
Try doing a compression test on the cylinders. There should be no difference of more than 25 PSI per cylinder. This will rule out any bad rings, or valve seats.
Next do a valve adjustment using any VW service manual. The correct gap needs to be .006" on a cold engine.
Once these steps are done, try putting in new plugs, and than timing the engine.
Finally, spray a little starting fluid around where the manifold bolts to the cylinder head on 3&4 while the engine is running. If it smooths out, than you know that the manifold gasket is leaking and needs to be replaced.
The combination of all these efforts should have you running just fine.
