AboutSteve Young Expertise I will answer questions on residential water treatment, i.e. use of softeners, filters, reverse osmosis systems, disinfection, iron and/or sediment removal and other issues facing the homeowner.
Experience I have worked in the water treatment area for 15 years. I have specialized in the design of reverse osmosis, deionization, and water softening units. I have also done work in water quality and stream and river remediation as it relates to the Clean Water Act.
Organizations I am currently serving as an Expert for Home Improvement, Travel (New Mexico) and Travel (North Carolina)
Expert: Steve Young Date: 6/23/2008 Subject: rust/low pH in well water
Question QUESTION: Hi Steve - we had a new well drilled earlier this year and now have water that turns orange after standing (eg toilet) and rust stains in our laundry. Our chem test results are as follows:
pH = 5.9, TDS = 150, hardness = 34.2, Iron = trace, manganese, sulfides, tannin, and copper = none detected,nitrates = 1. First question: if I have ferrous iron, why isn't it showing on the water test? I took a sample to Sears for testing and got the same results. Do I need a specific test for ferrous iron? Second question: what type of system will remove the iron effectively and the most economically given the low pH. Thanks for your help.
ANSWER: Hi Holly,
I think that you should try to correct the low pH problem first. It could be that the acidity of the water is causing corrosion in your pipes and that the iron you are seeing is ferric iron. Iron in the ferric state is insoluble and will not show up in a water test. Your pH of 5.9 is way too low and you really need to have a neutralizer installed. Your well water pH should be in the range of 7.0-7.8 Here is what I am talking about: http://www.caitechnologies.com/water-softeners/ph-neutralizer-systems.htm
This is a very simple system to operate and maintain. I really think that this will solve your problem. If it turns out that you still need to remove iron from your well water (which you shouldn't because the analysis shows only a trace), you will still need a neutralizer.
You can easily install a neutralizer yourself if you have plumbing skills or you can purchase one and have a plumber install it. It generally is much cheaper to do it that rather than to go through a water treatment company. Water treatment companies provide a valuable service but a neutralizer is such a simple system that homeowners can do this themselves.
I hope this answers your question. If you have any other questions or if you need additional information please let me know.
Take care,
Steve
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: HI Steve - I appreciate your quick response. Is there any way to detetmine if the rust is from corroded pipes vs the well before I purchase a pH neutralizer? Would a water analysis that compared a sample taken at the pressure tank (where I took my last sample) and one from the kitchen faucet help identify the source of iron? Also, why is the presence of iron more visible in hot water? Thanks again for your help
Answer Hi Holly,
It would be difficult to determine whether the rust was from the well casing pipe, or other pipes downstream of the pressure tank towards the house because the corrosion is not a constant dynamic and continual process. You might get a high reading one time and a lower one the next time. It is my opinion that a pH of 5.9 is too low anyway and should be corrected regardless of the source of the iron. The reason that the iron is more visible in hot water is that as the water is heated the iron becomes less soluble.
I hope this helps - let me know if I can help any further.
Take care,
Steve
