Expert: Jonathan Wright - 9/26/2005

Question
For 2 years I've had a family of 4 wild raccoons that I would feed in my yard.  Suddenly, this summer it has turned into 13 and it's out of control!  I have a soft spot for my original 4--they're very calm and don't bother the cats, but the other 8 are much more wild and are fighting for food and taking over my yard.  At this point I think I've got to start detering all of them, regardless, but I'm afraid if I put out "repellents" it will scare my cats away.  How do I start sending them away?  I'm desperate to regain my yard at night.  Thank you for any advice, Lauren

Answer
Dear Lauren

Thanks for your question. It looks like you've got a bit of a problem there. You've tried to be nice to a few raccoons, but it seems that the local raccoon population are taking advantage of you. A few years ago, a woman was taken to court for feeding pigeons. She put out so much food for them that great flocks came down, leaving mess and chaos all over the place. The woman was banned from feeding pigeons, but couldn't stop, as she felt she had to help out. I've got a friend who feeds foxes and other animals near her home, while other people would be quite happy for fox populations around London to be eradicated. It takes all sorts to make, but it's always good to knwo that there are people, like you, who care about wildlife.  

The following sites have details about repellents: http://www.safepetproducts.com/pilot.asp?pg=animaldeterrents_main and http://www.pestcontrol-products.com/repellents_deter.htm

http://www.critter-repellent.com/raccoon/how-to-get-rid-of-raccoons.php is more specific. Raccoons normally forage for food at night. If you find one using your cat door or garbage area, you must move and secure any garbage (food) they may be able to smell from outside. This step and the introduction of a deterrent will go a long way to changing this habit. Shake-Away is a strong, granular repellent that contains the scent of the urine of the raccoon's most feared rival, the coyote. The smell should drive the raccoons away from the area "claimed by" the coyote. The site says that other animal deterrent methods are time consuming to use, messy to apply and some are even harmful to people, plants and animals. Shake-Away is organic and is safe to use around children pets and plants. It is easy to apply and does not harm raccoons.

http://blogs.salon.com/0001772/stories/2004/04/06/theRaccoonStories.html goes into great detail about problems with raccoons. It suggests that using fox urine is very expensive, but raccoons can be deterred if you use mothballs.

You may be able to deter raccoons by using a motion-activated sprinkler or a battery operated ‘Scarecrow' attached to a garden hose, but it seems that raccoons adapt to this with time.

http://muextension.missouri.edu/explore/agguides/wildlife/g09453.htm gives details about methods used by Missouri to deter raccoons. I have included information directly from the site. Please go to the site for more details about problems caused by raccoons. “You can make your local habitat less favourable to raccoons by removing potential sources of food, water, and shelter is the first step in eliminating the problem. This includes removing pet food and water during the night and keeping the yard cleaned up and woodpiles stacked neatly. Garbage cans should be tied down to a solid structure so they cannot be overturned, and lids should be tight fitting, tied or weighted down to deny access to garbage. Raccoons will climb, tear a hole, or burrow under most fencing, particularly if ripe sweetcorn or watermelons are available in the garden. If a fence is already present, the addition of a single wire about 8 inches from the fence and 8 inches above the ground electrified with a charger will provide an effective deterrent. Use a charger with a seal of approval from Underwriters Laboratories Inc. (UL). Use warning signs if the area is accessible to children or the public. When no other fences are present, two electrified wires, one 6 inches and the other 12 inches above the ground, mounted on insulated stakes or poles will accomplish the same result. A single strand 6 to 8 inches above the ground may be sufficient, but two wires will provide added insurance. The fence needs to be activated only at night.

“There are no chemical repellents registered for controlling or repelling raccoons, but various materials have been tested. Research suggests that mothballs (napthalene) or PDB crystals (paradichlorobenzene) may be effective at repelling mammals from enclosed spaces. Use of these chemicals may encourage raccoons to leave the area so that other exclusion techniques can be implemented.

“Using scare tactics or devices, such as propane cannons that make loud booms, pyrotechnics (fireworks), scarecrows, lights, or dogs, are not effective or practical in controlling raccoons, particularly in urban areas. Raccoons usually figure out that scare tactics pose no physical threat, and usually ignore them.

“There are no poisons or fumigants currently registered for raccoon control. Trapping can be effective at removing problem animals. Raccoons are relatively easy to catch in traps, but it takes a sturdy trap to hold one. Foothold traps may be used on rural sites but should never be used in an urban area. For urban areas and for homeowners with pets, a live or cage-type trap is usually the preferable alternative. Traps should be at least 12 inches wide by 12 inches high by 36 inches long and constructed with heavy materials. The trap may be baited with sardines, fish, meat, or fruit. Baiting with peanut butter on bread or fruit, vanilla extract on bread, or just fruit in an urban area should decrease the likelihood of catching a cat. The trap should be placed on a sheet of plywood or other hard surface, because raccoons will dig up all the grass or anything in reach after being trapped. Place the trap so that the back is against a tree, wall or other solid object. Lastly, the trap may have to be covered with burlap or a tight wire mesh to prevent animals from reaching through and stealing the bait.

“Many homeowners prefer to release raccoons unharmed in a distant location, "where the animal can find a good home." Studies show that relocated raccoons tend to create problems in a new area. There is growing opposition to relocating raccoons and other wildlife because of the possibility of disease spreading from one population (urban) to another (rural). In addition, research indicates that a relocated raccoon may be forced out of the new area by the other raccoons already present. Because raccoons that are trapped and relocated may not have a good chance of survival, it is better to dispose of them. Local pest control companies, humane society or animal damage control services may be willing to dispose of the raccoon for you”.

I hope that the information above will help you deal with your raccoon problem.

All the best

Jonathan