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About Greg Scholl
Expertise
Questions on Woodworking, wood finishing and refinishing of all kinds, repairing furniture and wooden objects,Architectural details, Woodturning, carving, tool usage, product usage, some chemistry as it applies to woodworking and related interests,cabinet making and furniture construction/design, etc. I have experience with all manners of colorants, finishes, paints, stains, dyes, glazes, and coatings of all kinds.

Experience
Fine furniture restorer and cabinet maker for over 30 years,serving high end Antique dealers, Interior designers, Collectors in the CT area. Sold, built, serviced, setup Home,Industrial and Commercial stationary woodworking tools for a major tool retailer in CT. for three years, sold hand and power tools, and offered instruction on use and care as well.I even have some Trade show Demo experience.

Organizations
none at this time.

Publications
Published in Fine Woodworking Magazine (12/97), included on Fine Woodworkings first "Best of Fine Woodworking" CD-ROM (2002) ...("27 year compilation of expert know-how"), local newspapers as well

Education/Credentials
Art School at Silvermine Guild in Norwalk, CT., 9 year apprenticeship in a European run Cabinet and Restoration shop in CT., various classes on subjects having to do with the field.Seminars by Major tool manufacturers, Delta, Powermatic, Performax, Porter Cable, Skil/Bosch to name a few.

Past/Present Clients
Many varied clients including work on Martha Stewarts' Westport, CT. show house, many fine Antique dealers and private collectors in and around Fairfield County and in Woodbury, CT.(the Antiques capital of CT.)
Consulting for area Painting/Decorating and Building contractors on non painting issues..(staining, wood prep.,clear finishing, floor restoration and architectural detail restoration and repair, etc.), local Museums and Historical Societies.

 
   

You are here:  Experts > Hobbies > Woodworking > Woodworking > REPLACING RUG FOR HARDWOOD RED OAK STAIRS

Woodworking - REPLACING RUG FOR HARDWOOD RED OAK STAIRS


Expert: Greg Scholl - 11/17/2008

Question
I placed the new stair flooring now we are ready to sand and stain in place.  
How do I sand and what do you recommend for staining?  I was thinking of
using the stain that already has the poly in it so save time.  Do they sell it
bigger than the gallon?  To sand the corners we are using 80 grid and we
wood pody the corners to cover the gaps, good bad or indifferent?  Please
advise, I am also staining in place, any suggestions on the best way to
accomplish that every other step may be?

Answer
Hi Maria, some tips as follows:
Use wood filler very sparingly, it can get into the pores and you won't get it out. all the extra you put on, will have to be sanded off.
Stain and then polyurethane is the best way to go. Look at a Gel stain because they have good color strength,fill pores, have the consistency of pudding, and contain polyurethane as a binder.I like the General line, but Minwax makes them too.
Sand down to 150 grit, and of course, ALWAYS sand WITH the grain.
Every other step is the way to do it if you have to use the staircase.
One to two coats of stain, with proper dry time, and then at least 2-3 coats of polyurethane, Satin or Semi gloss, lightly sanding in between with 400 grit if rough to the touch. Vacuum off any dust before urethaning, and make sure the dust is kept down in the area during drying. Minwax Poly is fine for stairs, just use a good quality natural bristle brush and good technique
Post back if need be and best of luck- Greg
http://www.generalfinishes.com/finishes/oil-base-finishes/oilbase.htm
http://www.minwax.com/products/wood_stains/gel_stain.cfm

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