AboutStuart Mawle Expertise Now been a carpenter & joiner for the past ten years in the UK. I can give avice / help on carpentry & joinery, health & safety, woodworking machinery, power tools and suppliers. I have served an indentured carpentry apprenticeship with a medium sized building contractor doing a wide range of domestic and commercial work. This has included office buildings, barn conversions, building extensions and renovations. During my career, I spent over three years as a wood trades technician at a college. My job involved joinery work, wood maching and helping CITB carpentry & joinery students` pratical projects. I am a member of Institute of Carpenters
Expert: Stuart Mawle Date: 7/22/2008 Subject: Mortic lock on ledge and brace door
Question Hi,
Is it possible to install a mortice dead lock on a ledge and brace door, or should I get a Frame, Ledge and Brace?
If I get a new door I will need to shave 0.5" from it, what is the best way to do this?
Thanks,
Martin
Answer It all depends on your door thickness. Most ledge and brace doors are 22mm - 26mm verticle boarding so it is still possible to install a mortice dead lock but it wont be pretty. You will need to add a block of timber ( by gluing and screwing) to the door for the lock to be fitted into. Ideally it should be position about 2/3 up from the floor. You are need to look at how the door interacts with the door lining/frame. The lining/frame will need careful chiseling out and some making good to make it work.
Fitting a new door in some cases means fitting a new door lining/frame. Framed ledge door is going to be 44mm in thickness so you need to check the frame/lining to see if it is a rebated type or planted stop type. If it planted stop type then it not going to be a a problem, just the case of repositioning the stops. If its rebated type and it isn't 45mm ish deep then you may as well replace it than try alter the rebate to fit the door thickness.
My best advice is if you are needing to secure particular room/area and it is outside (or door is access from outside) then I would be fitting a Framed ledge and brace door because it stronger construction/better security option than ledge and brace. I would recommend fitting either 2 deadlock (one 1/3 up from floor, 2/3 up from floor) rather than just makes it harder to break in. Likewise if the door hinges are outwards then you need to fit security hinges/ 'hinge'bolts preventing someone knocking hinge pins out, gaining access that way in.
It is quite easy to remove 13mm by using an electrical plane or circular saw. Just remember to take off from both sides than just from one side. I would recommend using a jack place for the final fitting of the door. You should have 2mm gap all the way round between the door and jambs/head. Bottom gaps tend to vary. I hope this helps you. Stuart Mawle
