AboutGreg Scholl Expertise Questions on Woodworking, wood finishing and refinishing of all kinds, repairing furniture and wooden objects,Architectural details, Woodturning, carving, tool usage, product usage, some chemistry as it applies to woodworking and related interests,cabinet making and furniture construction/design, etc. I have experience with all manners of colorants, finishes, paints, stains, dyes, glazes, and coatings of all kinds.
Experience Fine furniture restorer and cabinet maker for over 30 years,serving high end Antique dealers, Interior designers, Collectors in the CT area. Sold, built, serviced, setup Home,Industrial and Commercial stationary woodworking tools for a major tool retailer in CT. for three years, sold hand and power tools, and offered instruction on use and care as well.I even have some Trade show Demo experience.
Organizations none at this time.
Publications Published in Fine Woodworking Magazine (12/97), included on Fine Woodworkings first "Best of Fine Woodworking" CD-ROM (2002) ...("27 year compilation of expert know-how"), local newspapers as well
Education/Credentials Art School at Silvermine Guild in Norwalk, CT., 9 year apprenticeship in a European run Cabinet and Restoration shop in CT., various classes on subjects having to do with the field.Seminars by Major tool manufacturers, Delta, Powermatic, Performax, Porter Cable, Skil/Bosch to name a few.
Past/Present Clients Many varied clients including work on Martha Stewarts' Westport, CT. show house, many fine Antique dealers and private collectors in and around Fairfield County and in Woodbury, CT.(the Antiques capital of CT.) Consulting for area Painting/Decorating and Building contractors on non painting issues..(staining, wood prep.,clear finishing, floor restoration and architectural detail restoration and repair, etc.), local Museums and Historical Societies.
Expert: Greg Scholl Date: 7/7/2008 Subject: Oil finish on teak table top
Question QUESTION: Hi, I'm in the process of cleaning and oiling a teak table I just bought (using a teak cleaner and oil the previous owner gave me). After cleaning the table, I lightly sanded the entire surface before oiling it, but when I applied the oil, it seems to have been absorbed very unevenly. Most of the table top is a golden brown, but there are dark red patches scattered throughout. I waited a day and applied a second coat. Now there are more dark red patches, but it's still far from even. Any advice on what I should do next would be greatly appreciated!
ANSWER: Hi Liz, can you tell me the products that you were given? and what did you sand it with? The original oil finish probably was wearing unevenly, and sanding will not even out the finish, but will allow some areas to absorb the oil unevenly. Can you tell whether the table is solid or veneered? If you look carefully at the edges, and compare the top and bottom, you should be able to tell....post back and we'll figure it out....regards- Greg
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QUESTION: Thanks for your response. I believe the table is solid teak. The products were Flag Teak Cleaner and Teak Oil (which is described on their website as a mix of oils and turpentine). I cleaned the table top with Scotch Brite pads and sanded it with very fine sandpaper. I noticed that some, but not all, of the dark red patches are where the table had more grime built up so I likely scrubbed at those areas more with the Scotch Brite when I was cleaning it.
Answer Hi Elizabeth, yes it sounds like you're right...I'm not familiar with Flag, but most of these oil finishes are the same type of thing. I would suggest getting some 400 wet dry sandpaper, and some Watco Danish oil finish, available in colors too,(I would use "natural" or a Light Walnut color), and wet sanding the top with the oil as a lubricant, and thereby sanding all the old surface off. Work with the Watco in a small bowl, tear the sheet of sandpaper into quarters, then fold a piece into thirds to give you a manageable piece to work with, (about 2"x5") and dip the folded sandpaper into the oil and wetsand the whole top thoroughly with the grain. You want to work with a pretty wet area, so keep dipping the paper into the oil as you work, and keep working in overlapping strokes until the whole top is even in color and then you can wipe off the oil thoroughly with a clean rag. If it's not completely even, repeat the process right away until it is...if the oil starts getting sticky or gooey, just add more to the surface to keep it wet, or wipe it all of and immediately add more and keep going. Protect the floor and surrounding areas, as this will be messy, and be sure to read and understand ALL the directions and precautions on the product. Let this dry overnight after the final wipe off, and then apply one or more coats to the top,applying liberally, letting sit 10-15 mins., and then wiping off evenly, let each dry 24 hours or so. Hope that helps- post back if need be- regards- Greg
