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Woodworking/Old Oak Door for Restaurant

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Expert: Greg Scholl - 10/23/2009


Question

Canon 213
Greg, I have a 100 year old 2 1/8 inch thick oak door that I would like to refinish for the restaurant I just bought.  The door clearly has some water damage and since the picture (attached) was taken I have replaced all the trim molding that holds the glass in place on both sides since it was heavily damaged and stained.

Here are my specific questions.

1.  What is the best way to remove the old finish?  Can you please recommend a commonly found product/source and a quick how to.

2.  What is the best way to remove the water damage stains.  Again, if you could recommend a commonly found product/source and a quick how to.

3.  Please recommend a good natural stain and durable exterior finish to use on the door.  The door does not get much direct sun or rain as it is in an exterior foyer.  My color scheme would work well with a natural oak color or something that would darken slightly would also be just fine.

The existing hideous door hardware is being replaced by a custom grape vine handle that is being forged/bronzed by a buddy of mine so it will be really nice when done and deserves the time.  I am very handy and have good tools and a dose of common sense to accomplish the above tasks.

I appreciate your guidance and advice.  Thanks in advance!!

Answer
Hey Bill,
1. A good paste type Varnish remover is the best way to strip the door. Use a Methylene chloride semi paste stripper, found at any good hardware store, #3 steel wool, followed by scrubbing the final coat dry with #1 steel wool, let dry overnight. Follow the instructions and precautions on the product.

2. Sanding may remove many of the stains, Oxalic acid solution will remove more stubborn water staining. Oxailic crystals are also available at a good hardware store, read and follow all directions and precautions on the product.

3.Not sure what you mean by "natural" stain,....natural means natural...ie: no stain... you'll have to evaluate the door after all the stripping and prep.The natural color of the Oak will probably be pleasing, but only you can decide how you want it to look. You can use a penetrating oil finish like WaterLox (which has a pleasing amber tone but the Exterior Marine finish is quite Glossy), or Flood, or something like Cabot's Australian Timber Oil, these last 2 are available in colors, or a conventional stain and an Exterior polyurethane. The penetrating finishes do not chip, flake, or peel, can be cleaned and recoated any time. Conventional surface films, (Spar, Urethanes, Varnish, etc.) will eventually fail and need to be refinished.Whatever you use I would refrain from mounting the glass until all the finishing is done and cured,make sure to finish the entire door, end grain on top and bottom, glass bed, moldings, etc., then bed the glass with clear silicone, or Lexel Clear caulk, be neat with the application of the caulk and don't try to wipe off the squeeze out when the caulk is fresh. Cut it off carefully after it is dry with a sharp razor blade.
Hope that's what you were looking for, post back if need be- Greg

http://www.floodco.com/wood-care-solutions/products/view-product.jsp?productId=5

http://www.floodco.com/wood-care-solutions/products/view-product.jsp?productId=3

http://shop.cabotstain.com/cabotstore/store/index.html

http://www.waterlox.com/desktopmodules/fathomecom/catalog/category.aspx?tabid=42...

Greg Scholl

Expertise

Questions on Woodworking, wood finishing and refinishing of all kinds, repairing furniture and wooden objects,Architectural details, Woodturning, carving, tool usage, product usage, some chemistry as it applies to woodworking and related interests,cabinet making and furniture construction/design, etc. I have experience with all manners of colorants, finishes, paints, stains, dyes, glazes, and coatings,wood species recognition,usage,etc.

Experience

Fine furniture restorer and cabinet maker for over 30 years,serving high end Antique dealers, Interior designers, Collectors in the CT area. Sold, built, serviced, setup Home,Industrial and Commercial stationary woodworking tools for a major tool retailer in CT. for three years, sold hand and power tools, and offered instruction on use and care as well.I even have some Trade show Demo experience.

Organizations
none at this time.

Publications
Published in Fine Woodworking Magazine (12/97), included on Fine Woodworkings first "Best of Fine Woodworking" CD-ROM (2002) ...("27 year compilation of expert know-how"), local newspapers as well

Education/Credentials
Art School at Silvermine Guild in Norwalk, CT., 9 year apprenticeship in a European run Cabinet and Restoration shop in CT., various classes on subjects having to do with the field. Seminars by Major tool manufacturers, Delta, Powermatic, Performax, Porter Cable, Skil/Bosch to name a few.

Past/Present Clients
Many varied clients including work on Martha Stewarts' Westport, CT. show house, many fine Antique dealers and private collectors in and around Fairfield County and in Woodbury, CT.(the Antiques capital of CT.)
Consulting for area Painting/Decorating and Building contractors on non painting issues..(staining, wood prep.,clear finishing, floor restoration and architectural detail restoration and repair, etc.), local Museums and Historical Societies.

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