Expert: Greg Scholl - 11/5/2009

Question
QUESTION: Hi - I just came into a Ryobi BTS10 Table saw.  I'm a bit new at this type of tool so may be missing something obvious.
 I needed to miter something to 45 degrees.  When I tilted the blade to 45, the back edge hit the table, while the front edge isn't hitting the table.  Not the piece that screws in (you remove it to change blades) but the table itself.
 So it seems to me that something is misaligned.  But the manual doesn't discuss realigning the saw blade or table top.  
 Your thoughts?  Am I maybe doing something wrong or overlooking something?

ANSWER: Hi Kevin, on a full sized table saw the blade arbor is mounted to the table with a trunion system attached with, usually, 4 bolts. For alignment purposes these bolts can be loosened and the trunion realigned before retightening the bolts.Does this saw cut parallel to the fence ok? Are you sure this blade is the correct size for the machine? (for instance running a 10" blade on an 8" machine)....many of these portable saws do not have the adjustment features of a larger more professional saw, and therefore you're limited on adjustability....they can also be bent or otherwise damaged, and that damage may not be readily apparent by looking at the saw. Begs the question...of why they got rid of it...flip the saw upside down and inspect it thoroughly, perhaps you'll be able to see what's going on....post back- regards- Greg

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QUESTION: I did find four screws which looked like they might adjust things, but I was wrong.  I switched blades - no luck.  Couldn't see anything wrong with the one I took out.

Why they got rid of it ... good point.  To be honest, I spent quite a bit of time trying to find the table saw I wanted, and chose a Bosch 4100-9 ay $600.  Before I bought it, I saw this in a Pawn Shop and talked them down to $30 (and it had 3 extra blades, two of them new#.  So I decided to get it to see if I was serious about it.  My first two projects don't need much in the way of features, and this should do them.  The miter issue got popped on me unexpectedly by my daughter, who decided I was putting a lot of trim #baseboards, etc) in her house this week before a party she's having.   
 
Thanks for your advice.  I played with things until I managed to squeeze out some acceptable trim.

ANSWER: No problem Kevin, if you have a digital camera and can send me a pic of the blade contacting the table it might be a help....and if you're doing a fair amount of 45's and trim, I'd get a miter saw as it's just a lot easier and more accurate.....regards- Greg

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QUESTION: Hi Greg - sorry this took so long.  I had some travel and am catching up now.  Here are three pictures (45 degree, 90 degree, and under the table)

Answer
Somethings bent somewhere, but it may not be adjustable.....I've seen these saws tumble before, and then never work the same way again...one reason to step up to a Contractors type with a seperate motor and arbor system...everything's infinitely adjustable....

If this will be primarily a stationary saw in a shop situation, go for a steel and cast iron Contractors type saw. Mark my words, you'll be glad you did for many reasons.(adjust-ability, stability when cutting sheet goods,replacing and upgrading parts like the fence, etc.) Also, don't be afraid of the used market when looking for a saw of this type.I owned a 70's era Craftsman for many years and sold it with a nice blade for $175, which was a good deal. Put it on a roller stand, and get a good assortment of quality blades, and it will last a lifetime. The portable, mostly plastic, universal motored saws are decent, but don't compare in many ways. I do own a Ryobi jobsite saw, with an integral stand with wheels so it rolls around like a handtruck, and it's a decent saw for carpentry, but as far as precision cuts, repeat-ability, stability, and accuracy, there's really no comparison with my Jet Contractors saw with the aftermarket fence system. Hope that helps- regards- Greg